Archive for April, 2007

Dining Essentials: Alan Wong’s

Monday, April 30th, 2007

What:  Alan Wong’s, Honolulu

Alan Wong'sWhere: 1857 S. King Street, Honolulu; 808/949-2526; reservations@alanwongs.com

Why Go:  Often hailed as the best restaurant in Hawaii, Alan Wong’s blends Eastern and Western cuisine seamlessly, using fresh Pacific Rim ingredients to give it a distinct island flavor.  Highly acclaimed but not snobby, the singular focus on food means accessible cuisine in hearty portions.

The Ambience:  On the third floor of an office building, it is unassumingly small and easy to miss. An open kitchen, curly koa wall panels, and dim lighting make it casually sophisticated.

The Cost:  Moderate: the average entrée runs $25 and higher, and will certainly not leave you hungry.

An Evening with Renzo Cotarella

Thursday, April 26th, 2007

Bruce Schoenfeld in Florence

“There are two categories of wine,” Antinori’s Renzo Cotarella says as he spears a mouthful of spaghetti. “With grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the drinkability of the wine is the priority. Then there are the complicated grapes, like Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo. With those, it isn’t about drinkability. Those are grapes that you have to be in love with.”

He pauses for a first taste from a bottle of Tignanello 2003. “It’s like a woman who can be beautiful – but if you’re not in love with her, she’s nothing to you,” he says. He looks across the table at his wife. “You’re my Pinot Noir,” he says.

Palate Paradise

Tuesday, April 24th, 2007

Pure at Pritzker On any given day Chicago welcomes titans of industry, Hollywood screen stars and global political figures. The star power this week was courtesy of the premium wine business. Pure Wine Co., a major midwest distributor, assembled an all-star roster of winery owners, vintners and importers to present their current releases to Chicago-area sommeliers and retailers.

The setting was dramatic: Inside Jay Pritzker Pavilion, with the city’s Millennium Park and a gorgeous April day as the backdrop through a towering glass partition. In all, 13 importers and 50 U.S. wineries were represented (43 from California).

Much of what was poured Monday is destined for critical acclaim, collectors’ wine cellars and epic wine lists, if they are not there already. Among those with whom we conversed and sipped:

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