Washington Powerhouse: DeLille Cellars
Steve Woodward in Chicago
It is not easy to stand out in a crowd of 102 wineries/brands when all are being represented inside the space of a hotel ballroom. Such was the scene this week at Gala 2007, hosted by Chicago-area distributor Heritage Wine Cellars Ltd. This is one of the year’s major portfolio tasting events for retailers and sommeliers in the Midwest. 
Among those who did rise above the din of swirling, sipping and selling was Jay Soloff, a co-proprietor of the ultra-premium Washington state winery DeLille Cellars.
We were delighted to offer the 2003 proprietary reds by the Yakima Valley producer — Chaleur Estate and Harrison Hill. This vintage, and 2002, were 95-point Bordelais-inspired masterpieces according to Robert Parker Jr. The 2004 Chaleur Estate, which we tasted at the Heritage gala inside the immense Ritz-Carlton Chicago, rivals its older siblings but is awaiting the critics’ final pronouncements. These Chaleur Estate blends are deep in color, abundant in the nose and long on refinement.
Steven Verlin Collection: Auction for the Ages
Steve Woodward in Chicago
Friday was an historic day in the premium wine auction industry because the Steven Verlin Collection — or some fraction of it that as of Saturday night generated more than $7 million in two bidding sessions — was on the block. At mid-afternoon my head (photographed below earlier in the morning) was buried in a Hart Davis Hart catalog, surveying enticing possibilities. When I looked up from my reading materials, to my surprise, weenies had filled the room.
You might rush to judgment here: what does one expect at a mega-premium wine auction? Weenies tend to show up at these events, thrusting their paddles skyward to one-up fellow wine collectors.
But this was different. This was Chicago’s Tru, a fine dining mecca, and the weenies were hot dogs nestled in white-bread buns. Suddenly, Tru and the famous landmark Wrigley Field were all but soul mates.
Friday was a day to celebrate the life of acclaimed late collector Steven Verlin, to bid on the vast components of his epic collection, and to nibble on the comfort foods he adored, Orville Redenbacher popcorn and authentic hot dogs, with dainty serving vessels of country dijon mustard and sauerkraut close by. Verlin’s spouse, Grae, flew in to observe this most important auction and to thank the attendees by having Tru’s staff uncork a Methuselah (6L) of 1990 Cristal — at 9:45 a.m. All in attendance were presented a flut of the prized Champagne to savor.
The hot dogs — good, but no match for Tru’s buffet lunch featuring three varities of pate, enormous prawns, smoked salmon, squid salad and bow-tie pesto pasta, to name a few – were served with Verlin’s wine of choice when he was being “frank”, a smokey Spanish Unico red. Bidders were served a healthy pour of a 1970 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero. Moments earlier, a lot of 6 magnums of same in original wood cases scored a winning bid of $8,500.
As expected, Day 1 of the two-day auction stirred aggressive bidding on location, online and by telephone. An imperial of 1947 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild Bordeaux fetched $45,000. Five lots of 1982 Chateau Lafleur (three 12-bottle offerings, a lot of two magnums and a jeroboam) attracted total winning bids of $126,000. A nine-bottle lot (all noted as showing signs of seepage) of 1982 Chateau Le Pin Pomerol was snatched for $40,000. A bidder in the room secured two double-magnums of 1989 Chateau Petrus for $38,000. A remote bidder stayed the course to claim an imperial of 1990 Petrus for the day’s highest single-lot bid, $50,000.
At my table a fellow bidder and I thoroughly enjoyed a Tru wine list choice, the 2005 K Vintners Cougar Hills Wall Walla Valley Syrah, with lunch. But this was not just another day in Chicago. Across the room inside Tru, we glimpsed Grae Verlin giving a nod to wine director Scott Tyree to decant a double magnum of 1990 Chateau Latour. A short time later, her old friends were understandably distracted from the auction as the Latour was served.
Countdown to the Verlin Auction
The Chicago wine calendar is loaded with prime-time events this time of year. Wholesalers are showcasing their star clients. Pure Wine Co. hosted its major portfoilio tasting last week in the Pritzker Pavilion, followed by Maverick’s this week at the University Club of Chicago. Heritage Wine Cellars holds its gala tasting next Monday. The nation’s premier winemakers and winery proprietors have been passing through O’Hare International Airport in large numbers.
I passed through the casually chic Naha restaurant Wednesday night to meet an old colleague for dinner. Not surprisingly, we encountered winemakers in the lounge. They were taking a break before going back to work. Naha hosted Pinot After Hours, an “exceptional lineup of Oregon’s leading Pinot producers.” A tasting scheduled from 10:30 p.m. to 2 a.m.? Why not? The Oregonians, at least, had the edge of being biologically on Pacific time.
The crown jewel on the calendar is Friday and Saturday when Chicago’s Tru restaurant is the venue for a Hart Davis Hart auction for the ages, the epic Steven Verlin Collection. It will attract the nation’s top collectors. Sales are expected to exceed $6 million, a record. This is to be the largest “named” private collection auction in U.S. history. A total of 1,876 lots will go on the block, including the most coveted vintages of Bordeaux and Burgundy on the planet. The kickoff was actually Thursday night when Tru hosted a $2,000-per-seat Chateau LaFleur vertical tasting.
At Naha, my friend and I debated about opening a bottle of 2004 Bonaccorsi Melville Pinot I brought along at his request. But we found an enticing alternative on Naha’s constantly updated list, a 2004 Paul Hobbs El Felino Malbec, one of the releases from Hobbs’ Mendoza consultation endeavor in Argentina. It opened up after 20 minutes. It was spicey and balanced enough to pair up nicely with two diverse entrees, a flavorful squab breast and beef short ribs.
Look for Vintelligence reports from the Verlin auction this weekend.
