Vineyard 29 is the embodiment of ultra-premium Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2002 Cab was a 300-case release. The 2003 Aida small vineyard Cabernet blend was only a 350-case production. Today, after working around the world, Bordeaux trained winemaker Philippe Melka of Vineyard 29 is one of the truly cutting edge winemakers in Napa Valley.

What: Japonais, Chicago

Where: 600 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago; 312/822-9600; www.japonaischicago.com

Why Go: Located in the heart of Chicago’s hip River North neighborhood, where a surge of loft apartment and luxury condominium development in the past decade spawned retail and dining options previously unheard of in this part of town, north of the city’s ‘Loop’ business district. Japonais is located on the ground floor of an art deco building, but beyond its walls is an outdoor lounge that offers tranquil river views in spring and summer. The menu is a sushi connoisseur’s paradise, but there are other exceptional choices for the sushi averse. Japonais’ wine list is compact but will not disappoint, especially on the ultra-premium end of the spectrum (Chateau Palmer Margaux 2000, 96-RP, $520).

Owner Michael Polenske (who chatted with us with video camera rolling) was convinced Napa’s Oak Knoll District was underleveraged as a sweet spot for growing Merlot. In a few short years the critical acclaim attracted by his Merlot-dominated Blackbird Vineyards Proprietary Red has proven Polenske’s vision was spot on. The 2004 release by Black Vineyards winemaker Sarah Gott (of Quintessa fame) is ripe and vibrant.

“When a name-brand talent joins a new winery, the wines probably will be worth paying attention to,” writes Elin McCoy for Bloomberg News.

She further concluded of Blackbird Vineyards: “Discovering Blackbird Vineyards during a recent (Napa Valley) stay was a pleasant surprise. In this land of 150-plus cabernets, the winery’s deliciously plush, balanced and elegant 2004 red is 95 percent merlot.”