Steve Woodward in Chicago

We tasted an incredible array of world-class Australian Shiraz and various blends on a very windy Thursday at The Grateful Palate’s portfolio event on the top floor of Hotel 71. One of the Aussie ladies in the crowded room (offering stunning views of Chicago’s skylines) suggested a fellow wine connoisseur check on his outbound flight. Cancellations were mounting, she advised, due to “an impending tornado.”

A bit of an overstatement, we are happy to report. But there is no risk of overtstatement in suggesting that the subtle tornado in the room this day, winemaker Chris Ringland (right), is well beyond “impending”. He has harnessed a powerful vortex of Cabernet and Shiraz excellence that finds Ringland elevated to cult status in and outside of Australia.  Recent vintages of his flagship Shiraz have left in their wake a path of wine critics fallen to their knees in awe. And as jaws have been dropping, prices have been rising. In other words, Ringland is a cult label.

Sadly, his 2001 Chris Ringland (formerly Three Rivers) Barossa Valley Shiraz (approximate retail will be $700/bottle), another entrant onto Robert Parker’s exclusive 100-point list, was not available for tasting. “We poured it all last night,” said Ringland, referring to a private dinner party he attended. “It is still being bottled. We had barrel samples here.” 

According to the web site operated by Langston’s, a leading Australia auction house, Ringland/Three Rivers Shiraz is the “Screaming Eagle” of Australian premium wine. The 1996 and 1998 vintages also earned Parker 100s. Ringland has gained still more renown for his consulting work with Spanish wines, namely a lush Grenache for the Alto Moncayo winery in Campo de Borja, and with Bodegas El Nido’s Cabernet-dominated blend (Jumilla). The 2004 El Nido ‘El Nido’ garnered 99 points; the ‘03 Alto Moncayo 93 points.

There were many other gems to taste at the Ringland table in Chicago, too. A likely star will be Ringland’s 3 Rings Reserve Shiraz (2004), yet unrated. The wine is sourced, he explained, from “a very old individual vineyard” and matured in barrels for three years. It is the first “reserve” designatiion for a 3 Rings release. We found it balanced, both juicy and robust.  Another to grab if it appears on-radar is the micro-production F.U. 2005 Shiraz. “It means ‘fed up’,” Ringland advises, wearing an impish smile. Only 200 cases were made. He said it will retail for about $300/bottle.

Lending his professorial charm to Vintelligence is none other than David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars, live on tape from Napa Valley. Click to watch his wonderful descriptions of Ramey wines including Russian River Chardonnay and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, both available in limited quantities through HinsdaleCellars.com.

Mark-Paul Gavigan, who is importer Eric Solomon’s man in the midwest for European Cellars, was kind enough to draw our attention to a fascinating timeline recently published in Gourmet Magazine. It traces the introduction of Spanish wines to the U.S. market, starting in 1982, also the year the now well regarded appellation Ribera del Duero was established.

The 25-year ascension of Spain’s top vintners was given a well deserved birthday gift earlier this year when five wines from the country were accorded 100 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. This was a first for premium Spanish wines.

We have particularly enjoyed a lush Garnache from the Campo de Borja region, a 2003 Alto Moncayo (93-Wine Advocate). And high praise was heaped on a powerful Rioja red, the 2001 Bodegas Muga Torre Muga (95-Wine Advocate).

Here’s the timeline:

●’82 Wines from Spain created to promote Spanish wines - DO Ribera Del
Duero established

●’84 Trailblazer Stephen Metzler founds Classical Wines of Spain

●’86 Spain joins the EU; Robert Parker enthusiastically reviews the ’82
Pesquera and Vega Sicilia, bringing new attention to Spanish wine

●’88 DO Rias Baixas is founded, focuses on Albarino varietal

●’89 Modern Priorat is born with the first wine of the Gratallops Five;
DO Bierzo is established; maverick importer Jorge Ordonez founds Fine
Estates of Spain; Eric Solomon opens European Cellars

●’91 Rioja becomes the first DOCa

●’92 Cava toasts the world at the Barcelona Olympics

●’93 Wines of Spain debuts at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic; Alvaro
Palacios introduces L’Ermita

●’94 WFS launches the Great Match Wine & Tapas tastings

●’95 First vintage of Pingus crafted by Peter Sisseck

●’99 Spanish wines begin double digit growth in the US market

●’02 Jerez introduces VOS & VORS Sherry

●’03 New Spanish wine laws take effect; Wine Spectator embraces Spain as
the new wine and food frontier; New York Times Magazine declares Spain
‘the New France’

●’05 First DO Pago established under new Spanish wine laws

●’06 Spain top chef’s take the US by storm at Spain’s 10 Culinary
Institute of America’s Worlds of Flavor

●’07 The Wine Advocate awards five Spanish wines with 100 points