We tasted Robert Craig’s forthcoming 2004 Cabernet Sauvignons this morning when he visited Hinsdale Wine Shop in Chicago’s western suburbs. Bob (left), as he congenially introduces himself, was here to talk about his limited releases – the Affinity Bordeaux-style blend and the Howell Moutain and Mount Veeder Cabernets.

The headline for Craig fans is that the ‘04 Affinity (85% Cabernet Sauvignon), produced from yields in southern Napa Valley’s Tulocay appellation, is unfiltered for the first time in its history. The goal is to achieve “more depth” for the blend, which tended to show less power and structure than Bob’s “mountain wines”. Our Wednesday tasting suggests the new approach is doing the job.

The Best of Bruce Schoenfeld

From our Archives

My sister called from Florida last year when her husband Ed was turning 50. He had been dropping hints that he’d like a wine gift.

She wanted advice on a half-case (six bottles) that would average $100 or less. I didn’t want to include anything as obvious as a Bordeaux first-growth from the affordable 1999 or 2001 vintages, or even a second-wave cult Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa. Ed could suss out those for himself.

But this was a 50th birthday, after all, so it also wouldn’t be appropriate to fill the gift box with underrated Chablis and best-buy Dolcetto. I needed skyrockets, marching bands, that sort of thing.

Castelnuovo Berardenga, Italy 

From the moment we were greeted on a breezy afternoon outside their lovely Tuscan villa, Seamus O’Kelly and recently wed spouse Patrizia Barbieri (below) extended to us the warmth and hospitality one might expect of old friends.

Our time together was delightful for the palate, uplifting for the soul and enlightening for the mind. The woman who arranged our villa for a weeklong stay in southern Tuscany (La Dolce Via Italy) suggested lunch in the home of an authentic local chef. We signed on without hesitation. It was our best decision of the week.