Throughout the Iceland’s “erupting” news, I couldn’t help but recall a geologist friend’s comments about volcanoes and wines after he returned from Cape Verde. He had traveled to a remote island with an impressive volcanic landscape, including Cha das Caldeiras, a volcanic plane. “From the (only) town on the island it takes you many hours to drive to Cha das Caldeiras,” said Professor Falk Amelung from the University of Miami in a recent e-mail. “There was nothing there other than lava and…vineyards. At least that’s the way I remember it!”

What’s in a soil?
Many of our favorite wine regions – Napa Valley, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, New Zealand – benefit from volcanic soils that include mineral-rich ingredients like basalt, pumice, perlite, jory and tufa. From glassy basalt that is rich in calcium, iron and magnesium to light, powdery perlite, these volcanic soil components vary in quantity and mineral composition.

“Minerals that come out of volcanoes are, by definition, stable at high temperatures,” said Professor Tim Dixon, University of Miami marine geologist and oenophile. “Upon eruption, they are rapidly chilled to glass, so the minerals are in a metastable state. Hence, they can rapidly break down – quick in a geologic sense, which means tens to hundreds of years. Ultimately, this process releases potash and phosphate, two critical nutrients normally in short supply.” In other words, volcanic soil makes for good soil chemistry.

Geologist colleague, also at the University of Miami, Shimon Wdowinski adds that these soils’ iron and magnesium could also be important. Volcanologists from University of California-Santa Barbara credit mineral-rich volcanic soils, too, noting that many people will risk heavy ash, lava flows and unbelievable damage to grow crops and raise livestock in these potentially dangerous areas because they are so bountiful. For example, except for the volcanic area near Naples, farming in southern Italy is difficult because of the prevalent limestone. Naples, however, has Mt. Vesuvius, and its two eruptions 35,000 and 12,000 years ago left mineral-rich soil that still is considered Italy’s best agricultural land.

According to Jeff Cox in The Wine News, the older, but not necessarily most dominant theory on volcanic soil’s benefits to wine, however, has to do with drainage. “For many years, the conventional wisdom, perpetuated by UC-Davis teachings, was that a soil’s drainage capacity, rather than some ineffable nutrient, had the biggest influence on the resulting quality of a wine.”

Professor Dixon also noted that volcanic soils provide important drainage. “Grape vines hate ” wet feet,” and volcanic terrains are usually sloped, hence drainage is good.” Winemakers will quickly tout the benefits of struggling vines that have to dig deep for their water and mineral sources, establishing stronger root systems in the process that make for heartier plants and fruit that is less fleshy and more concentrated in flavor.

The Santa Barbara volcanologists note yet another reason for volcanic soil’s benefits: its reaction to the sun: heat from the sun releases key elements from the rocks, making them accessible to the plants within. “Volcanic rocks make some of the best soils on earth because they… have a wide variety of common elements and are readily chemically separated into elemental components.”

Terroir, terroir, terroir
Though terroir sounds a lot like terrain, the French say it is much more than the ground and soil—it’s about the interconnectedness of all elements that ultimately produce great wines. It’s fascinating to see areas like the Mosel River Valley and Pfalz regions of Germany, that don’t seem to have any active volcanoes these days but still benefit from volcanic soil that remains to produce vibrant Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

Likewise, according to Cox, Napa Valley has an age-old connection. “Beginning about four or five million years ago, Napa Valley was a region of active volcanism. This ancient volcanic rock comes to the surface today on the lower slopes on either side of the valley.”

According to the Santa Barbara volcanologists, “after the Mt. St. Helens eruption in 1980, people who were living downwind from the eruption were concerned that the ash that fell would be detrimental to the agricultural farmlands of eastern Washington. This concern was countered by a group of knowledgeable earth scientists. Volcanic ash can be considered as a time-release capsule, rich in nutrients.”

While geologists know generally how volcanic ash or soil help better winemaking, it is hardly the only factor. So many variables play into producing great wine that winemakers seem to be able to rely on skill, experience and science only so much. Sometimes, they also need a little luck or magic.

2007 Charles Smith Wines  Eve Chardonnay, Walla Walla Valley, Wash.
As a former rock band manager in Scandinavia, Charles Smith has ensured his wines “rock” also, and this Chardonnay is no exception. Think Granny Smith apples with a hint of lemon, softened by an edge of melon and some honey. This Chardonnay has a remarkable crisp, light and bright taste. It is not your typical Chardonnay. It is indeed luscious, with a thick, creamy mouthfeel, but with just notes of butter and almonds that accent its unusual minerality. It gets its name from the Garden of Eden. Charles Smith believed it was “sinfully tempting” – a silky, perfumy, seductive wine. Of course, it is quite at home in your own garden, too, making it the perfect white to welcome in spring.

2005 Mettler Petite Sirah , Lodi, Calif.
Looking for a change in the red wines you are drinking this spring? This award-winning Petite Sirah may be just the ticket. For those unfamiliar with this lesser-known varietal that originated in France, you will find Petite Sirah is never particularly subtle, and this organic one is indeed a burst of bold, fruit-forward lusciousness. Described as a “deep purple that almost stains the glass,” this wine brings forth its spicy, jammy blueberry and blackberry flavors with an amazing mouthfeel. A pronounced and prolonged finish brings out complex oak undertones and hints of vanilla and coffee. This is a red to brighten those drizzly days when spring can feel more like fall.

• Women make up 52 percent of the adult population.
• Women buy 57 percent of the wine consumed in the United States.
• In 1890, 10 percent of the winemakers were estimated to be women.
• In 1990, women still only accounted for 10 percent of winemakers.

While women likely play a more prominent role in winemaking than this seemingly low-ball estimate, there is no denying that many of the wines they make – most likely because of skills and experience rather than gender – are some of the best in the world. So, in celebration of Women’s History Month, here are five great winemakers who happen to be women that deserve your attention:

Kris Curran
Sea Smoke pinot noir – as featured in Sideways – is one of the most coveted wines with such limited productions that even the winemaker has to pay for her very limited share, and Kris Curran was there making some of its early 2000 vintages. A dog lover with four German shepherds, she chose to major in animal science, rather than enology because the college she preferred to UC-Davis, didn’t have that program. She says, she still got her fair share of chemistry and biology, and her natural proclivity to producing sensational wines is clear. In 2008, she moved on to Foley Wines for new challenges with Pinot Noir, but this is a winemaker who seems to have a golden touch with the vines anywhere she goes.

Laura Catena
Vice president of Argentina’s famous Bodega Catena Zapata, where she does the research that leads to some of the top blends for her father, Nicolás Catena, Laura Catena is also the owner of her own “Luca” label and has written a book about Argentinean wines. Many who frequent Hinsdale Cellars will remember Sean Chaudhry’s forays in Argentina, which included memorable dinners and tastings at Bodega Catena Zapata. A believer in Cabernet-Malbec blends, Catena is producing some of those most notable and luscious reds we have come to love and even expect from Argentina.

Heidi Barrett, California
Robert Parker Jr. refers to Heidi Barrett as the “First Lady of Wine,” and it’s no surprise as she has been the winemaker behind renowned Screaming Eagle, a Cabernet that consistently thrills wine lovers and collectors. Barrett is the only winemaker ever to have received five perfect scores from the top wine critics in the country, and in 2008, she moved onto Fantesca Estate and Winery, a boutique wine producer in Napa Valley, still leading the way when it comes to unique, special California wines.

Ann Colgin
“Superstar” is how many refer to Ann Colgin, who is known for building a world-renowned reputation for California’s small production, hand-crafted red wines. While her Lamb Vineyard wines have drawn special attention, Colgin Cellars wines are all sought-after, often hard-to-find wines. Reportedly, that is because annual production is limited to just 300 cases, with more than 4,000 people on a mailing list, clamoring to have some of her latest efforts.

Celia Masyczek
Former Staglin Family winemaker, Celia Masyczek is now one of the most sought-after consultants in Napa, having earned her fame with high-end Napa Valley reds. Masyczek cut her teeth in winemaking in Medford, Ore., where she grew up as the daughter of a wine collector and home winemaker. After a fermentation science degree from UC-Davis, she may have started her career with an eye toward chemistry, but ultimately she has let her own sense of taste lead her to many noteworthy wines. As freelance winemaker, Masyczek is based at Laird Family Estate and has nine clients. Some of her past and current clients are: Hartwell, D.R. Stephens, Husic, Rocca, Cornerstone and recently Scarecrow from the JJ Cohn vineyard (whose 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon earned a Robert Parker Jr. 98-point rating.).

With winemakers like these, it makes it irresistible to make a toast to them with some of their latest creations. See what Hinsdale Cellars has in store today!

And while the spirit of the holiday is to pamper your pets and pay homage to the unconditional love they provide so freely, perhaps it’s a time to look to those wines that make every day, Love Your Pet Day and include them in your celebrations of this special occasion.

These days we have wineries that donate proceeds to animal shelters and humane societies. Others host fundraisers for pet-related causes. And certainly, many vineyards are home to cats, dogs and other sorts of pets. While I love a good animal-related wine label, I can’t help thinking of my friend whose only wine-buying advice is that she never chooses wines with animals upon them. She may laugh as she spouts what she herself knows to be nonsensical advice, but it does give one pause. Sure any winemaker can throw a gerbil, parrot, iguana, cat or dog onto the label, but how do we find one that will pair well with tonight’s dinner? Here are just three really terrific pet-labeled wines to get you started…

Woof Woof for Riesling

Not sure if the label on O’Reilly’s 2007 Riesling is an Irish Wolfhound, but its tropical fruit flavors seem a far cry from Ireland. While German Rieslings in the States tend to be sweeter, this Riesling comes from Yakima Valley, Washington, showing much more like the luxurious German Kabinett Rieslings that don’t seem to export much out of Germany. This is a crisp white with a hint of minerality and citrus flavors that will have you recall that perfect summer day when Fido’s Frisbee-catching in the park also caught everyone’s attention. This wine is as great with fondue as it is with grilled fish, and a superb way to remind you that summer will indeed come again.

A Warm Spot for a Washington Red
Here’s a wine that is the cat’s meow among wine critics who praise its sensational drinkability and value. Bergevin Lane 2006 Calico Red Blend, another Washington wine, has scents of cedar and cherry that lead you into this medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Franc. The wine brings forth berry flavors, vanilla and oakiness and is perhaps just the right homage to celebrate your cat’s favorite climbing tree.

Wine that makes the dog dance?
If you are looking for a chardonnay that knows how to have fun, then perhaps the Hoopla 2007  Chardonnay from Napa is the wine for you. Spencer Hoopes has become known for his wine-making trailblazing, and this chardonnay is touted as a great example of his risk-taking in producing interesting, great-tasting wines. It is a fresh wine with flavors that range from green apple, fig, citrus to allspice. The free-spirited pup on the label is indicative of the light-hearted, fun-loving wine that will have you barking for more.

From the heart, for the heart
Since 1991 when 60 Minutes’ Morley Safer first reported on the “French paradox,” Americans and others have been fascinated by the way the French seem to resist heart disease despite their culturally-entrenched diet of high-fat stinky cheeses, cholesterol-laden pâtés, and pommes frites bathed in saturated fats like lard. Are butter and cream like vitamins in this culture? Nay, many believe that the wine they drink with their meals offers cardio-protection.

Moderate alcohol consumption is known to raise “good” cholesterol levels and flush out the nasty platelets that like to cling to our blood vessels and create the blockages that can lead to heart attacks and strokes. Additionally, the antioxidants in wine – whether they are flavonoids or nonflavonoids aid heart health. The superstar nonflavonoid is undoubtedly resveratrol, which also prevents fat from clogging our arteries. Additionally, quercetin and catechins are popular antioxidants found in wine and other foods. The reason so many people tout the benefits of red wine is that these antioxidants are primarily found in grape skins, which steep longer in the red winemaking process than white wines, so reds have more resveratrol than whites. However, antioxidants are everywhere, including non-alcoholic foods, like simple, unfermented grapes. Wine, however, has an interestingly larger amount.

Antioxidants prevent cancer, right?
When I think antioxidants, I think anti-cancer. Antioxidants fight the free radicals in our bodies that are said to result from smoking, radiation and certain bad chemicals that have been associated with cancers and other diseases. That’s why marketers love to promote antioxidants. If folks have seen the movie, Idiocracy, my husband compares this worldwide obsession with antioxidants to the movie’s fixation with electrolytes that caused society to replace water with sports drinks and wonder why the grass and plants were all dying. Seriously though, many researchers have long reported wine’s antioxidant properties and their role in preventing cancer.

That’s why many health-minded wine lovers were disappointed to hear the studies this past year that reported an increased risk of certain cancers as a result of even moderate wine consumption. And these weren’t small studies, either. Some researchers believe that alcohol damages fragile cells it comes into contact with, increasing the risk for mouth, lung, bladder, colon and liver cancers. Additionally, a large study involving British women showed consistent increased risk for breast cancer. However, the jury is still out on these issues as researchers wrestle with some of the confounding factors of these studies, such as the roles diet and other lifestyle factors played in increasing cancer risks. Undoubtedly, this confounding scientific evidence will spawn further research.

Super Wine!
Reading the various medical literature on wine might lead one to believe that wine cures most anything, and in some cases the studies, though mostly in animals, do seem promising. Wine has impressive antioxidants, and antioxidants are credited with not only preventing heart attacks, strokes and blood vessel disease, but also thwarting Alzheimer’s disease, other dementia, degenerative disorders such as Parkinson’s, immune disorders, cataracts and macular degeneration. Of course, successes are in varying amounts, but according to Dr. Harvey E. Finkel, a clinical professor of medicine at Boston University Medical Center and chairman of the Committee on Health of the Society of Wine Educators, these claims have solid research behind them, so the outlook is good that antioxidants are likely helpful to people with these health issues.

More preliminary research, according to Dr. Finkel, has shown that wine and grapes inactivated certain viruses and possibly stimulated “fat burning” that helped with weight loss, believe it or not. But my favorite study is the one that essentially says wine makes you smarter. A study of aging twins – one who drank moderately, the other who didn’t – showed that the moderate drinker was smarter, scoring higher intellectually than those who drank significantly more or significantly less.

Everything in moderation
Without exception, studies that purported wine and/or alcohol’s health benefits only saw those benefits with moderate consumption, which is defined as one drink per day for women and two per day for men, who are generally larger and metabolize alcohol somewhat differently. As soon as consumption increased beyond this level, the benefits disappeared and other long-term health risks developed, such as diabetes, liver disease and certain cancers.

That said, if we go back to that original researcher who discussed the French paradox with 60 Minutes, Serge Renaud, we see his research makes a wonderful case for enjoying moderate wine consumption. He and his colleagues from the University of Bordeaux associated moderate wine consumption with a “30% reduction in the death rate from all causes; a 35% percent reduction in death rates from cardiovascular disease; and an 18-24% reduction in death rates from cancer.” Now that is something I can drink to.

– Helen Gurley Brown, the Ultimate “Cosmo” Girl

Naysayers may exist, but I find it hard to believe that anyone is immune to the celebratory powers of Champagne. It’s what’s for weddings, New Year’s, and so many other special occasions. Karen MacNeil, author of the Wine Bible, recounts Marilyn Monroe’s love for the stuff such that the actress reportedly took a bath in 350 bottles of it!

Sure, these days one can find other satisfying bubblies in a favorite Prosecco, Cava or Sekt, but Champagne will always have one thing these others don’t: the name, Champagne.

Folks like Robert M. Parker will say that name has done a disservice to the wine, allowing it to rest on its delicate fizzy laurels and take far longer than it should have in developing into wine that is as great tasting as it is luxurious and festive.

Back to the chalk pit

What makes Champagne unique is what makes so many French wines unique: its terroir. From its start 65 million years ago when prehistoric seas over northern France and Britain receded, leaving huge chalky deposits, Champagne grapes had unique soil composition and an interesting set of microclimates for such a small area (again, very French) that yielded interesting wine stories, if not great wine in its early years in the 1600s.

• Cold temperatures that kept the yeasts from growing during the winter months initially frustrated wine makers. Spring would come, yeasts would grow again and the result was embarrassingly fizzy wine. At this time, that was more likely seen as evidence of spoilage rather than something elegant.

• Theses wines also had a problem with gritty yeast residue. Thanks to a Widow Clicquot employee, a fascinating “riddling” process migrated the residue to the bottles’ stems where it could be frozen and expelled with gas from the bottles themselves before a final topping off with base wine and rebottling.

• The Champagne region winters and springs could be (and still are!) so cold that grapes had a hard time surviving. Not only were vines trained low to the ground to maximize the heat that bounces off the white soil, but winemakers used to employ white plastic sheeting to aid reflection as well. That sheeting has since been outlawed.

The trio of grapes

Interestingly, only three grapes can be found in Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. And because of the disparity between these grapes, Champagnes, depending on the grape distribution, can fluctuate wine flavors and textures as well – from something light and citrusy to full-bodied and more reminiscent of vanilla custard in flavor and texture.

Champagne makers tend to stick with a style such that Perrier-Jouêt will likely always be a light-to-medium wine. Veuve Clicquot and Pommery will likely always be medium-to-full bodied, and Bollinger and Krug will always be known for their fullness. For someone interested in a more Chardonnay-driven Champagne, a Blanc de Blanc might be in order, which predominantly come from Côte des Blanc, which is one of five Champagne vineyard areas. Along with the Montagne de Reims, the Côte des Blanc is home to essentially all 17 of Champagne’s “extraordinary” villages, according to MacNeil, saying they are “historically rated 100 percent.” Duval-Leroy, based in Vertus, has been making Champagne in this region since 1859, and produces both Blanc de Chardonnay as well as other Champagnes that have gotten considerable attention.

Ringing in the New Year

As New Year’s Eve approaches, finding just the right bubbly to make your festivities special doesn’t have to be difficult. With an ample selection, the experts at Hinsdale Wine Cellars are here to assist, and most importantly, wish you a joyous 2010.

In the retail business all his life, including a fine wine store in Alabama that he ran with his father, Alex Shamsuddim has arrived in Downers Grove. With plans to expand the menu at the Cellar Door and listen to patrons’ wants and needs, Shamsuddim is soon to make the Cellar Door, the wine bar and store “where everyone knows your name.”

While Shamsuddim may be new to most folks in this area, he is quite familiar to Hinsdale Cellars owner, Sean Chaudhry who has known him since their college days together at California State University in Long Beach. Having met in 1989, they have since shared many food and wine experiences together, including a “Sideways-like” trip through Napa Valley and another adventure through Spain’s wine country.

“Alex is a really likeable guy who is great at building relationships with customers,” Chaudhry said. “We’ll see him building very strong relationships with the folks here, and I’m sure wine lovers will be impressed with how his passion for food and wine takes the Cellar Door to the next level.”

That passion for wine shines through as he begins to talk about his preferences: “Spanish wines are among my favorites because I like the complexity, their value and the history of the regions there,” Shamsuddim said. “I also love the depth and spices that pour out of Argentina’s Malbec grape. And when I look at Napa Valley Cabs, I am also impressed with what I believe is superb quality – very complex and rich flavors come out of these grapes. I love that the whole process of wine making has changed the way the world now looks at, and has come to respect, the Napa Cabs.”

Stop by the Cellar Door to taste some wine and welcome our newest addition as he takes your favorite local wine bar and makes it even better!

Gordon’s
Touted as London’s oldest wine bar, I had read that Gordon’s specializes in fortified wines, straight from casks. And while many may try to capture the ambience of this relic of a wine bar, I strongly believe that pictures and words will undoubtedly fall short. Located close to Charing Cross tube station, this port and sherry repository is fairly tucked away. Steps lead down into the heart of this dark, oaky-smelling place where side rooms look more like caves with no more lighting than romantic candles. Yes, this place could be romantic if not for the table tents, t-shirts and signs everywhere that caution customers of it being a high-crime area. “Please watch your valuables…. pickpockets abound.” Apparently, they provide “security hooks” under your table for when you go to the counter to get your wine – no servers here, at least during the day shift. However, fumbling underneath our well-used wooden table left us merely wiping our hands and leaving one person to “stand guard” rather than abandoning our “stuff.” The good news: we had no incidence of crime. The best news: we tasted some wonderful beakers of white and tawny port, and schooners of sherry. Tickets to a show prevented us from staying longer and experiencing other wines, which I am sure, reading from reviews, are nothing short of remarkable.

1707 Wine Bar
For any foodie worth her salt, a trip to London should also include a visit to the gourmet department store, Fortnum & Mason, where one can bask in the glow of countless tea tins, cheeses, chocolates and other, more decadent items that tease the taste buds. Lucky for wine lovers, they have a wine bar with wonderful “flights” and single glasses of wine to try in addition to a food menu. Here a flight to Spain, Provence, Italy or New Zealand takes you there by way of three representative glasses of wine. With our French whites, we also opted to try a little local fare, ordering some cheddar and Stilton cheese with typical British crackers and oatcakes. The live jazz music in an elegant and intimate environment suited the tasting well. The Maitre D’ proved as humorous as he did helpful in guiding our selections and seeing to it that we received them quickly.

Kensington Wine Rooms
When I think of wine rooms, I think of quiet, reserved, elegant places where a suited sommelier with perfect posture and a white towel over his bent lower arm act as wine maestros for my tasting experience. And at Kensington Wine Rooms, that is exactly what you won’t find. Instead, it is a lively, loud and fun place with tapas fare as well as beautiful plates of fully adorned duck breasts and other substantial meals. The “sommeliers” are several, but dressed in jeans and button-down shirts. Their casual attire, however, doesn’t transfer to their attitude about wine. With that, they are most definitely serious. We sat at the bar, watching so many of them taste (and spit) the wines before serving newly opened bottles to customers. Kensington boasts its special “enomatic” wine system that allows open bottles to stay fresh between customer orders. Best of all, the sommeliers are knowledgeable and eager to share their personal favorites. From our sommelier’s favorite Rioja to a California Zinfandel and then an Argentine Malbec, I found each wine equally impressive. Accompanied by some simple, but appropriate antipasto and the happy fervor of the crowd there (standing room only by the time we left), Kensington proved to be a perfect spot for exploring new wines.

Now, you may wonder how, when there are at least 30 wine bars in London, I decided on these three to visit, and I must credit professional resources. By that, I mean Sean Chaudhry and his enormous network of wine lovers, which includes a cousin, Anjum Iqbal, who lives in London and gave me the low-down on wine bars before my trip. But that is the beauty of a network of wine lovers and the sign of a good wine seller: guiding the exploration of great wines around the world.

2008 Epiphany: Grenache Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley
We have all heard of the red Grenache grape that is used so often to make Provencal Rosé, but the Grenache Blanc grape is much less common, partly because it has a reputation for being hard to tame. Low acidity, high alcohol—it needs a little bit of something else to make it sing. And that’s why Parker’s family adds in 4 percent Rousanne. This light golden wine is like a fall fruit bowl with a hint of the tropics. Most note the green apple, late peach and pear flavors with some minerality and spice thrown in. This wine, with 14.1% alcohol, has a dry finish that will go well with your favorite chicken dish.

2005 Epiphany: Gypsy, Santa Ynez Valley
Just like the Chateauneuf du Pape it succeeds at emulating, Gypsy blends together several grapes: half of the wine is made from Mourvedre and Grenache, and Syrah, Carignane and Petite Sirah make up the rest

The result is an intense, aromatic, ruby-colored nectar that recalls dark berries and cherries, currants, sage, pepper, pipe tobacco-y scents that bear out on the palate with robust flavors of dark chocolate, blackberry, black cherry, black pepper and vanilla. The 25 months of barrel aging have produced an elegant, robust wine that is fun to drink and certain to impress those who love an equally rich and aromatic Provencal red. This wine can be enjoyed now and over the next 2-3 years.