High marks for Argentine winemaker

It’s tough being an “A” student.

At least that’s what we always told our parents who pushed us for high marks. And for a winemaker, it’s even tougher to score high marks on her wines when she is, after all, trying to temper Mother Nature and harness the sun, rain and soil to produce breathtaking “nectar of the Gods.”

But that is exactly what Susana Balbo has done, producing wines that reviewers consistently score in the 90’s. Whether it is her signature Malbec, Brioso and Cabernet Sauvignon or her “offspring” Crios wines, like the Torrontes and Rosé, they rate 90+ points, and critics seem to gush about one of the most well-known and well-respected Argentine winemakers to date.

“Susana Balbo is to Argentine wine what Martha Stewart is to homemaking and Oprah Winfrey is to media in the United States,” wrote Vivianne Rodrigues on Reuters Life earlier this year.

In fact, Susana has come a long way from her enology degree that she earned in 1981. Much of her career was spent traveling around the world to help others create great wines in places like Chile, Australia, Spain, France, South Africa and California before she and her husband, Pedro Marchevsky decided in 1999 to create their own winery, Dominio del Plata, in Argentina. Today, Susana is president of the trade group Wines of Argentina, which represents more than 170 wineries.

Listening to nature

As a biodynamic winemaker, one of Susana’s guiding principles is sustainable agriculture. That means not only organic farming of a current harvest, but also taking a long-range approach to the land and local community to protect natural resources such that viticulture continues to thrive in this region. Additionally, Susana is known for her detail-oriented approach to winemaking. From planting to water management to blending decisions, she refuses to overlook any detail that can make a wine transcend from just good to really great. And it is likely her obvious passion for this profession that has taken her there.

Balbo-ific wine

It is no accident that Balbo and her husband chose Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, as their winery home. An area noted for its warm summer days and cool nights, Mendoza provides well-draining, sandy soil that is as close to perfect as it gets for making wine, despite some pretty fierce hail storms. Through a high-trellising system for grape vine stability and biodynamic farming, the grapes here benefit from a long growing season that leads to wines with Balbo’s characteristic great color, flavor and nose.

In addition to Balbo’s super premium or signature labels of Susana Balbo, Ben Marco, and Nosotros, she has become popularly known for her more moderately priced “Crios” line. Crios means offspring in Spanish, and she has said that she chose this name because these wines weren’t quite as grown up as her others – more brashly fruit forward and to be enjoyed younger than her signature wines. Regardless of the label, one thing is clear when experiencing Susana Balbo’s wines: hard work, knowledge, passion and an instinct for producing fabulous wine are undoubtedly a winning combination.

Interested in tasting some of Susana’s fine wines, then you are in luck; Susana Balbo is in Hinsdale! A reservation-only tasting is scheduled for Friday, August 27^th, 6-8:30 p.m. at the Hinsdale Wine Shop. The $20 entrance fee will be applied toward your purchases. To make reservations, call 630-654-9862.

Viva España!

If ever there was a week for Spanish wines, this is it.

A German octopus with impressive psychic abilities (at least when it comes to anticipating winners and losers in World Cup 2010) has predicted Spain will be victorious at Sunday’s final match against the Netherlands. This is the first time the team has ever qualified for the finals.  And it’s clear why they have done so — the youthful team plays with an obvious passion that is beautiful to watch. For oenophiles, Spanish wines too are attracting more attention and fans this year as wine producers possess devotion, passion and skill, much like the popularized España strikers David Villa, Carles Puyol or Xavi.

Lucky for me, I recently visited Spain and got to experience some of its great wine stars first hand, such as Perfum De Vi Blanc from producer Raventos i Blanc and winemaker Pepe Raventos.  As we approached the vineyard, a striking circular courtyard surrounded a majestic 500-year-old oak tree, unfortunately toppled by a recent storm.  Considered a winery icon, this tree has witnessed the changes and growth in the Raventos operation since 1497—18 generations of winemakers who have worked the 90 hectares of historic vineyard that lie about 30 minutes west of Barcelona in the Catalunya region.  The clean, contemporary architecture with its mix of large skylights and modern arches hints at the family’s keen interest in tapping modern technology to protect the land through biodynamic viticulture to produce truly remarkable wines.  The Raventos are probably best known for their sparkling cavas, but it was this 50/50 blend of Muscat and Macabeo grapes that “wow-ed” me during our tastings.

Macabeo, also known as Viura, is a hearty grape that is often blended into cavas and has become popular in France’s Roussillon area. The grape produces mildly acidic and young white wines that are light, lively, refreshing and perfect for early use as evidenced in this 2009 Perfum.  The grape, however, that puts the “perfume” in the Perfum is clearly the Muscat, which is known for its distinctive floral aroma. (Interesting fact: Muscat grapes have been found to carry large concentrations of flavonoid antioxidants, even at the same level as red wines, which is good for the heart when drunk in moderation, of course.)

The final result of these two grapes is a blend that, as I have said before, is like no other. Initially, it has a hypnotic floral nose, followed by the fresh and lively florality in taste.  There are hints of melon, pear and citrus that make it a perfect match to a hot summer day.  It has a good balance between the mouth-filling character of the Muscat and the freshness of Macabeo. I challenge you to stop at one glass.  I think it’s impossible.

So with a forecast here in Hinsdale of nearly 90-degree weather Sunday for the World Cup finals, it seems like the perfect time to make sure you have some Perfum chilling in preparation.  Whether the octopus is right or wrong, whether he’s a fan of Spanish wines or not, whether you are indifferent to soccer games or octopus, this is a wine that is just perfect for any hot summer day.

Exploring Chile’s New World Treasures

It’s a bit ironic.  On land that was once plundered and overrun with violent conquistadors, one now finds tranquil biodynamic farming and

winemaking. However, that is exactly the case at Matetic Vineyards, which is often singled out as one of Chile’s best winemakers, especially when it comes to its Pinot Noir.  Soft, loping alpacas weed the grounds there, and grape skins, cow manure and grass make for the compost that is later used to nurture vines.  This is a far cry from the 1600s when the Spanish brought Chile its first grape vines while staking claim to this wonderful country.  Later, they would try to limit Chile’s wine production, but to no avail.

Considered a New World star, Matetic in particular continues to garner attention and acclaim for its breathtaking wines.  Located in San Antonio Valley, the Croatian Matetic family only started making wine here in 1999, but have a history farming the Chilean land that dates back 100 years.  They are clearly in touch with the land that makes their fine wines, and lucky Hinsdale Inspired Wine Club members get a virtual trip there in June with two of the winemaker’s extraordinary top-line EQ wines – two varietals definitely not traditionally associated with Chile.

EQ Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Twenty years ago, Chile was known only for its reds, but in the unique climate of San Antonio Valley, Sauvignon Blanc has found a very comfortable home.  Cool temps and reddish clay soil that contains decomposed granite and quartz lend a unique minerality to this Sauvignon Blanc.  The nose of delicate tropical fruits and distinct lemon blossoms are a wonderful entry to this light-colored wine. To the palate, it provides a complex experience of minerality and a gentle balance of acidity and soft sweetness of fruity flavors.  Winemaker serving suggestions: oily fishes, ceviche, sea urchins, oysters or sheep cheeses.

EQ Pinot Noir 2006

Matetic Pinot Noir is considered to be among the very best pinot noirs coming out of Chile.  Wine critics, despite generally thinking of Chile as cabernet country, have questioned whether Pinot Noir and Syrah might be its true destiny, recognizing San Antonio Valley as seemingly perfect terroir for this grape and Matetic as a leader.  The 2006 presents as an elegant deep ruby red, calling forth gentle aromas of strawberry jam, plum and even a hint of anise.  The texture is soft and elegant, the acidity well-balanced, and the finish long and beautiful. Winemaker serving suggestions: fish, goat cheese, cured ham, lean red meat, pasta.

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