Burgundy: Down to Earth

It’s all about the terroir. In Burgundy, wines are known by regions rather than varietal grapes. Experts talk about the region’s 400 types of soil. Vineyards are the focus, not winemakers. And wine experts reiterate the importance and variability of the microclimates within a given vineyard. The end result, of course, has been legendary winemaking that many consider the gold standard.

Recently, Hinsdale Cellars hosted a Burgundy wine tasting with Scott Paul Wines, highlighting some of Burgundy’s best. The event featured seven phenomenal reds and whites, including: Domaine Philippe Chavy—Puligny-Montrachet; Domaine Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin; Domaine Anne & Hervé Sigaut – Chambolle-Musigny; Domaine Thibert Père & Fils; and Domaine Buisson-Charles – Meursault.

The reds, the whites

The interesting thing about Burgundy is that it produces primarily two varietals: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Chablis, Pouilly-Fuisse, Macon-Lugny—these are not grape varietals, but regions where these white Burgundies are produced, which may come as some surprise. Unlike their California cousins, Burgundy’s Chardonnays are more acidic and mineral-ly flavored. The French, as Jarrett Osborn wrote recently in the Vail Daily, use French oak barrel aging more “judiciously,” and that imparts “nuances and texture – not monstrous and sweet oaky flavors.” He hits it right on the mark when he talks about white Burgundy’s clean, crisp flavor.

The color “burgundy,” of course, is red, so we probably most associate this region with its reds. The word most associated with French Pinot Noir is “complex.” These are rich wines , not unlike their U.S. West Coast cousins. With California Pinot Noir, wine tasters seem to hone in on their fruitiness more.

What’s in a region?

Comparable to Oregon, Burgundy is not large, and both areas hold between 13,500-13,700 acres of vines. To put it in context: Bordeaux has 235,000 acres; and California, 515,000 acres. Despite Burgundy’s small size, five very distinctive regions with their own special terroirs reveal their strengths and variability: Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, and the Mâconnais. In Chablis, the terroir is perfect for dry, crisp whites. Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, together may be known as the Côte d’Or, but the former is home to the great red burgundies, and some whites, while the latter is producing a bit of both. The Mâconnais, is also known for its whites and is often considered the place to find white Burgundy “values.” However, this is just the larger regional breakdown of Burgundy. Within these regions are sub-regions, and within vineyards, winemakers talk of clear microclimate variances.

French wine standards and wine labels

When wine is an important part of your economy, you want to establish standards, so consumers will continue to seek out that great wine. France has taken that to heart with its vineyard classification system that is, of course, right on the label. If you want the best of the best, then Grand Cru is for you, but only 2 percent of all of Burgundy’s vineyards produce Grand Cru caliber wine, and you will find that the prices match that prestigious titling. Premier Cru, also written as 1er Cru, is the next level down, but still only 10 percent of total wine production. Then come the Villages, which is wine from one or many vineyards surrounding a specific Burgundian village and making up about 40 percent of Burgundy. Lastly, regional or Bourgogne wines make up about half of the vineyards, which are ones labeled as Bourgogne Rouge or Blanc, for example. Keep in mind, that even these wines are high-quality.

Interestingly, it’s rare for only one person or company to own a vineyard, and in some cases, there can be as many 70 or 80 owners—especially interesting when the vineyards tend to be quite small.

A year can make a difference

The Hinsdale Cellars wine tasting included all wines from 2006, which was an interesting year, particularly for white Burgundies. With an early flowering, a very hot July, followed by a “record-setting” chill and rains in August and then a tropical heat wave in September, fruit ripened earlier and unpredictably. Winemakers had difficulty deciding when to harvest because the ripening did not occur evenly, either. The ban de vendange, which is when harvesting is to begin, was preempted, and all were nervous about the success of this season. As it turned out, 2006 has been hailed, and as noted on eRobertparker.com, many growers believe their adaptive processes from that year of harvesting early, pressing the grapes very gently, settling the juice thoroughly and doing less stirring is not only what saved the vintage, but should be standard operating procedures for the future. The question remains, however, on the long-term stability of these Burgundies, which can be a problem, especially as there is a trend to minimize sulfite use.

If all this information about Burgundy sounds a bit complex, you are not alone. How does one know which Puligny –Montrachet to drink when the flavors and nose can change from vineyard to vineyard and within a given vineyard? The key is to taste and taste and ask questions of your favored wine seller.