However, wine connoisseurs today know that for Italy’s finest wines, one needs to trek further north to the foothills of the Italian Alps known as Piemonte, where the terroir is so unique that few elsewhere in the world would ever attempt to grow its unique and luxurious grapes.

Piemonte’s most revered Nebbiolo grape has been around for centuries, but its most significant road to fame and deliciousness has actually happened in the past 30 years. The Nebbiolo grape is as ubiquitous to Piemonte as Pinot Noir is to Burgundy, but it hasn’t been easy to tame this thick-skinned, high tannin, late-harvesting grape. Until the advent of temperature-controlled barrels, winemakers had trouble softening those thick skins and strong tannins, especially when the aging process was started at the coldest time of the year that would stall fermentation. Often they wound up with wine that even after decades of aging still wouldn’t mellow. Today, Piemonte’s Nebbiolo, Barolo and Barbaresco wines are highly cherished. Interestingly, they come from different villages, but all from that same high-maintenance grape known as Nebbiolo. These are not wines for the weak-hearted. They are robust and with distinctive qualities, invoking some odd descriptors such as tar, licorice, leather and dried stone fruit. Complexity is undoubtedly Nebbiolo’s calling card, and these wines are considered to be among the very best in the world.

And while Burgundy, to which Piemonte is often compared, may be satisfied with having just two famous grape varietals, this region has several well-known wines to its name. Asti Spumante, a light, semisweet sparkling wine gained popularity in the ‘70s because of its clear and easy quaffability.

Gavi is a dry white varietal that many a wine lover has discovered upon tiring of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Italian wine doesn’t necessarily connote white wine beyond that of Pinot Grigio, so it is often a pleasant surprise to taste the crisp, dry Gavi that thrives in the cooler temps of northern Italy.

Other reds of note from this region include Barbera, which is considered the area’s day-to-day, table wine. In fact, this rustic wine is the most widely planted grape in the region.

A lesser-known red but that provides an instantly quaffable wine option is the Dolcetto, which is sometimes compared to Beaujolais because of its highly drinkable fruitiness. It makes an interesting contrast to Nebbiolo because it has little tannin, is much lighter and with very little acid.

While just a highlight of some of Piemonte’s greatest wine assets, wine lovers can enjoy a tasting at Hinsdale Wine Cellars Friday, 6-8 p.m., for some excellent representatives of this region from Sottimano winery.

– Ivy F. Kupec

And sure enough, as we made our way to the unassuming vineyard known as Fattoria La Magia, we were soon to learn just how great that wine could be. Winemaker and owner Fabian Schwarz greeted us and casually took us to a hillside overlooking his grapes with a breathtaking view that also included a distant Benedictine St. Antimo abbey that Charlemagne built so many centuries ago. While it is far from being the biggest vineyard in the world (approximately 52 hectares of which you can see all of it from this one vantage point), here is a winery that has flourished, exporting its wine around the world.

“Do you ever get sick of this view,” I said while transfixed by the gentle vineyards with the abbey beyond and a backdrop of the majestic Apennine Mountains.

Fabian chuckled and said, “No, but sometimes they look even better after I have been away traveling.”

The Brunello everybody loves

Most wine experts will say that Brunello is Tuscany’s greatest wine varietal; others say it is the best in all of Italy. Roughly translated as “nice dark one,” this is a red wine lover’s dream with its smooth tannins and robust dark fruit and leather flavors. Brunello di Montalcino was awarded with the first DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in 1980, which means it can only be grown and produced in Montalcino, that everything used to make the wine must also come from Montalcino and that it can only be made from 100 percent Brunello grapes, which are a perfected clone of the Sangiovese grape that dates back to the mid-19^th century. Fabian explained that Brunello must age at least two years in oak barrels and a minimum of four years overall as part of the DOCG rules. Riserva Brunello ages at least two and a half years in oak barrels and five years overall.

Like many of the local winemakers, Fabian and his wife offer tastings and tours by appointment, and depending on what you taste and whether you would like some charcuterie alongside your wines, the price ranges between 10 and 18 Euro ($14-25 US).  The tour starts in the vineyard, goes through the cellars and finishes outside under a shady tree, where the family dog is quick to nestle herself comfortably under the tables as well.

It’s this kind of environment that allows one to learn about the challenges a winemaker has and see the parts of winemaking that drive his passion. My friend’s simple question about Fabian’s wine label revealed that when he was just four years old, an artist had come to visit his father to design that year’s label for the Riserva wine. However, on that occasion the four-year-old created art that proved to be longer-lived, still adorning all of La Magia’s wine bottles rather than just one vintage like the work from the more experienced artist.

A satisfying tasting

So, La Magia, like most of the wineries in Montalcino has found the benefits of location and have clearly specialized in Brunello. Like most winemakers in this area, Fabian specializes with the three wines of Montalcino: Rosso, Brunello and Brunello Riserva. While winemakers save their best quality grapes for Riserva and lesser quality grapes for Rosso, a lot of the rules can change depending on a good or bad vintage. Many reviewers will note that in bad vintage years, these wines can prove to be exceptional values. As winemakers downgrade their best grapes, the Rosso’s quality improves. Asking Fabian about which years were good years for Rosso and good years for Riserva proved mind numbing. Compounding the confusing list of vintages was the fact that as we tasted his three wines, they all had impressive aroma, taste and color, despite ranging in price from 12 to 45 Euros/bottle.

Bad quality Rosso?  Not from this place was the conclusion we drew. Yes, the Rosso lacked some of that depth and tannins in which the Brunello and Riserva bathed your tongue, but it definitely held its own as a hearty, earthy, robust red wine. We bought two bottles of each wine for the rest of our Tuscan vacation. However, we couldn’t resist opening them in threesomes to continue comparing and contrasting.

My husband likes to say that the best wines are always best because of context – you’re having a good time, surrounded by friends or family, or the setting is just perfect. Well, for six traveling friends in Tuscany, we decided La Magia has some damn fine context.

– Ivy F. Kupec

Basil: Or else?

Alexis Zorba: …he never dares cut the rope and be free.

Basil: …Teach me to dance….

– From Zorba the Greek

Breakfast offerings at the meat market.

Meandering around Athens...

One travels to Greece with a certain degree of expectation. Sparkling blue seas should catch the sun and blind you with Greece’s unstoppable beauty. The scents of garlicky, grilled souvlaki and the sounds of energetic lute music should follow you as you travel through quaint, narrow streets lined with quaint stucco buildings. And you should encounter mustached men gulping ouzo and freely dancing their own version of Zorba’s Sirtaki.

So, when my good, good friend and Cellar Door manager Alex Shamsuddin and I spent eight days in Athens and Mykonos, that was the movie playing in my head as we began our travels. While we failed to see Anthony Quinn or have anyone teach us the secret to life, we did hear firsthand experiences about Greece’s recent economic woes, discover Athens’ central market, and become mesmerized by Mykonos’ splendor.

A taste of reality

The first thing we experienced in Greece was a taste of economic despair—not ours, thankfully. Coming into Athens, our hotel was conveniently situated near Syntagma Square, just downwind from the Acropolis and central to everything, including a huge protest. Greece’s economic hardships were hard to avoid in conversations with the Greeks we met. I lost track of the number of people inquiring about jobs in the United States, asking how to emigrate and relaying their own personal financial woes. You would think in that case tourists would find bargains everywhere, but just the opposite was true. Starbucks would have looked like a bargain compared to our coffee, which was selling for 5 euros/cup (about $7). And if the “Best Bartender in Greece” was telling us the truth, he earned the equivalent of $35/day – that doesn’t buy too many cups of coffee!  So, with all this bad news and warnings of pickpockets everywhere, it was a little hard to get comfortable in Greece…at first. However, Greece is a bit of paradise. And if one believes Zorba the Greek, this is a resilient culture that will rise above. Despite its recent travails, Greece is undeniably full of history, culture, and color and still makes for a restful vacation.

Going to the meat market

Jet lag can drive a person crazy. Unable to sleep, Alex and I decided on our second day to explore Athens – cigars in hand – at its least crowded – 5 a.m. And at that time of day, The Agora or central market was where the action was. We found butchers grinding, carving and macerating every meat you could imagine. Fishmongers, too, were sorting and cleaning fish, and flower vendors and vegetable sellers also received their day’s delivery of fresh, colorful produce. The air there was thick and gamey but the sights spectacular. Peach-colored squash blossoms that are sometimes filled and sometimes just lightly batter-fried were nestled among a brilliant array of colors in the many vegetable and fruit kiosks. The next day and the day after we returned to gaze upon the trays of goat heads or cured pork legs hanging along walls – literally the place was a feast for the senses. We would munch on olives and cheeses as we simply enjoyed walking through the market, listening to the Greek banter. On our second trip there, we discovered the Agora had cafeteria-like restaurants where locals were consuming ouzo even in the morning. We joined in, selecting spiced meatballs that went perfectly with a big glass of Greek frosty beer.

Sure we made it to the historic and massive Acropolis that looms above Athens. And through all our exploring we happened upon the bartender who had been voted best in all of Greece and made the most alluring cocktails. But likely the most memorable part of Athens will be the time spent in the Agora.

Magical Mykonos

Mykonos is the kind of Greece that people dream of. It’s what we see in movies, and when one is there, it’s hard to believe that these narrow gray stone-paved walkways are what they refer to as streets. Whitewashed buildings contrast against the azure sky and matching azure-painted balcony rails, window shutters, and doors. At night, the streets fill up with those who have spent their days sunbathing. Unlike the majority of other men traveling in pairs in Mykonos, we were not wearing skin-tight white t-shirts, hanging inside or outside of the discotheques whose house music radiated down the street, drawing in male European tourists like a Pied Piper.

No, Alex and I instead reveled in the pastoral side of Mykonos. It was back to nature for us with the gorgeous blue water, the blinding white sand, and, oh, the nakedness. No, we weren’t naked, but many around us were—even those guys who would later be sweating on a dance floor rather than lingering in a nice restaurant like we would. Yes, food in Mykonos was lovely, and surprisingly not always seafood. At Namma Barbecue, we had an assortment of grilled meats that went perfectly with an ice-cold glass of crisp, slightly salty Muscadet. However, one of my best meals was at Mouragio where you ordered an appetizer and selected your specific fresh fish from a case that they grilled simply with salt, pepper and olive oil. It was flaky, light and so fresh—one of the best fish dinners I have ever had. I’ve tried to replicate the process at home, but honestly, maybe I need the Greek sun and sand to do so.

After five days in Mykonos, I felt sated, re-energized and ready to return to my own hot Hinsdale sun. It had been a relaxing week, but I couldn’t help thinking of Zorba’s words again: “No more fooling around, not in this place. We’ll pull our pants up and make a pile of money.”

– Sean Chaudhry

Picture springtime Sevilla at a tapas café whose sliding glass doors are wide open to easily allow in customers as well as the light, warm evening breeze. In addition to a bustling inside business, small round tables invite customers outside in the quieter cobblestone walkway. The menu is modest and traditional. The wine list only divides reds from whites, with hardly a familiar wine on the list. I close my eyes and pick what I think will be a cooling white, figuring it will be some permutation of the local favorite Muscat. But I don’t pay attention, and when the waiter brings a smaller, narrower glass cloudy from the chill of it being stored in a freezer and filled with ice cold manzanilla “La Goya” sherry, I am at first perplexed.

Don’t get me wrong, I had planned on tasting sherry on this trip, but not until I got to the land of sherry, Jerez. I’m so glad I didn’t wait. manzanilla sherry is the driest of the sherry types and noted for its brininess. In this case, the golden beverage (always served ultra cold) was crisp, light and perfect for the very warm evening in Spain. It shocked my senses such that I returned to the menu quickly to see if more sherry was available to taste. Sure enough, the majority of the wines at this particular location were sherry. Another manzanilla, and then I was into the more amber and sweeter sherry: Oloroso Alfonso and Solera 1847. This was not your grandmother’s idea of sherry, I’m pretty sure.

An introduction to Spain’s fortified wine

Learning about sherry is no easy task. Sherry ranges from very dry to cloyingly sweet, with approximately seven specific types to choose from: “fino-type” known as manzanilla, fino, amontillado, palo cortado and “oloroso-type” that are the darkest and sweetest known as oloroso, cream, and Pedro Ximénez. A tour in Jerez at the Tío Pepe bodega showed the solera system that is used to make sherry. All sherry starts out from pressed grapes that are fortified with grape spirits and then progressively mixed with sherry from previous years such that one cannot buy a specific vintage. It is always a mix of many years’ vintages. Newer casks sit upon older ones and are methodically mixed together to lend the older sherry’s depth to the newest characteristics. However, in the initial fermentation, fino-style sherry is stored in casks that are only partially filled to allow for a layer of yeasty “flor” that prevents oxidation and preserves a lighter color and drier flavor. While most sherry uses Palomino grapes, the oloroso and Pedro Ximénez tap raisin-like Pedro Ximénez grapes in varying amounts to produce very sweet wines that rival the complexity of fine Port, Sauterne or Tokij.

Grandma’s sherry

In February, Lettie Teague wrote in the Wall Street Journal of how restaurants and wine shops often buy sherry more for the proprietors and staff tastes than for the customers’. Indeed, at Commander’s Palace, one of New Orleans most famous restaurants, they go through 60 liters of sherry per week…making soup. And according to our Tío Pepe Tour Guide Roberto, it’s Brits who rival the Spanish in sherry consumption. However, in the United States, we more likely think of sherry as that bottle that sits around for ages saved only for cooking or consumed by little, old ladies who like a sweet drink in small amounts. Teague recounts a disappointing story of going to a bar, ordering sherry and receiving a glass of month-old Harvey’s Bristol Cream at room temperature. “Women love it,” the bartender tells her.

Only a month after Teague’s article ran, New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov countered with his own sherry piece that a revival is afoot in the United States and our taste buds are on the search for something old that is new again. I hope he’s right.

Sherry can be delicious – even cream sherry – but to enjoy what it has to offer it should be served icy cold and from a freshly opened bottle. Keeping an opened bottle more than 2-3 days will only lead to disappointment as I found out in the latter part of our Spanish adventure outside of sherry country, after I had grown accustomed to my sherry aperitif.

So here is my Andalucian takeaway. Give sherry a try. But do it right. Talk to wine gurus like the folks at Hinsdale Wine Cellars who can make sensible recommendations for your taste. Find yourself some marbled Serrano ham and mild Manchego queso and chill a bottle of sherry until you think it will almost freeze, despite the 22 percent alcohol levels that some of the sweetest sherry contains. Then on one of those spring nights that seems far too balmy to still be called spring, bring all these essential ingredients and a chilled glass out to your deck, terrace, balcony or front porch. Taste a little ham. Maybe some cheese. Sip the sherry. Close your eyes. And then tell me you can’t see Andalucia’s poetic olive trees and feel the Spanish sun kissing your cheeks. It’s magical.

– Ivy F. Kupec

Every Tuesday is sangria night at The Cellar Door in Downers Grove, and they know that sangria transforms ordinary get-togethers into fun, festive fiestas. It’s true. Lucky for me, I will get to survey sangria and tapas in the part of Spain where both apparently originate. In honor of that upcoming excursion, I thought it would only be fitting to write about sangria.

Sangria’s supposed history

One of the problems of researching a drink so embedded in a culture is that information gets passed around much like children play that “telephone” party game. Thankfully, a book, Sangria: Fun and Festive Recipes, is available to set the record straight. According to author Mittie Helmich, the first recorded sangria is attributed to Romans who lived in Andalusia, the Spain’s southern coast, around 300 B.C., and who cooled themselves off with a nice little wine drink made from a young red wine, steeped with fresh local fruit and magnified by regional spices and other personalized flair.

But here is where it’s hard to distinguish fact from lore. Most say the word sangria comes from the Spanish word for blood, sangre, in a nod to the red wine used to make this drink. However, according to Helmich, lexicographers have hypothesized a Sanskrit derivation: sakkari means “sugared wine.”  Whatever the case, Americans reportedly didn’t get a good taste of sangria until it was introduced at the 1964 World’s Fair in New York City.

The right way to make sangria

As best as I can tell (having yet to talk to the “locals), there are only three rules to sangria.

1. Sangria must contain wine.

2. Sangria must contain fruit.

3. Sangria must be refreshingly chilled.

After those rules, it would seem almost anything goes. Although we think of sangria as a light red wine drink, sangria blanca employs white wine or even Spain’s wonderful sparkling wine, cava. Sangria fruits generally include apples, pears and citrus, but it’s clear that the Spanish focus on locally grown produce when making sangria. When plums, melons or peaches are in season, in sangria they go. In more tropical locales, one may see mango or pineapple or other local produce. The goal is to keep it fresh, using only the best fruit.

So, after the fruit and the wine, the craziness really begins. Some fortify their sangria with liqueurs or liquor. Others add fizzy mineral water to give it a little bounce. Spices, again generally of local origin, customize and regionalize sangria. According to Helmich, Mediterranean Spain’s concoctions utilize peaches, apricots, melons, cherries, grapes, oranges and pears from Barcelona and Valencia while tapping Catalonia’s cava or the ever-abundant riojas. However, in Andalusia, where Moors had a strong foothold, the sangrias may blend in sherry (it’s local, afterall), saffron, figs and dates with dry white wines, sweet Muscat or reds from Valdepeñas.

But the original American sangria, served in the 1964 World’s Fair Spanish Pavilion was introduced by Alberto Heras, who opened a tony restaurant on New York’s Park Avenue after his great success at the World’s Fair. Thanks to Jane and Michael Stern and their great book, American Gourmet, the recipe is presented for all to use and fiesta-ize their next dinner party or gathering:

1964 World’s Fair Sangria

Serves 4

1 bottle red Spanish wine

2 tbsp. sugar

1 lemon, cut into slices

½ orange, cut into slices

1 ounce Spanish brandy

1 ounce Cointreau

2 cups ice cubes

1 cup cold club soda

An hour before serving, pour wine into a large pitcher. Add sugar and mix well. Stir in lemon and orange slices, brandy and Cointreau. Chill until ready to serve. Just before serving, add ice cubes and club soda, stirring just enough to chill very well.

Obviously, there’s not a whole lot of fruit in this recipe, so like the Spanish, one is always free to extemporaneously deviate with more or different fruit and other choices for fortification. While the Sterns recommend you drink this sangria strained from its ice and fruit a la World’s Fair style, many other sangria lovers say, it’s up to you. Bottomline, the drink should be fresh, fruity and a whole lot of fun. Salud!

–Ivy Kupec

Ambassador to Italian wine and phenomenal Tuscan winemaker in his own right, Sanguineti was my trusty guide and fearless driver, proving YES, he can drive even faster (even when the Audi is a silver one!), as on the day we found ourselves heading 45 minutes closer to Switzerland rather than where we should have been going.

Italian Artisanal Wine

Many friends have asked about my recent trip that showcased small, artisanal Italian winemakers. Though we have a tasting planned for this week, I thought I would blog about some of the highlights. La (Silver) Banana Rapida was indeed an unforgettable, nail-biting experience, but just as memorable was the range of wines we tasted in Slovenia and the northern Italian wine regions of Friuli, Trentino, Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta.  Ah yes, they spanned from great to damn-I-can’t-get-enough-of-this-phenomenal-stuff.  That’s the range I like the best when it comes to wine. So, fasten your seatbelts because here’s the Sanguineti-quick summary of a wonderful wine adventure that included my good friend and president of the Pure Wine Company, Troy Clements.

View from the Simčič winery in Slovenia -- as beautiful as the wine was delicious.

Slovenia

Despite this being an Italian adventure, we started our trip in Slovenia, which is considered to be an up-and-coming wine region. While many up-and-comers can provide hit-or-miss wine experiences, we were not disappointed. In fact, the word that comes to mind when I recall the white wines we enjoyed at Edi Simčič is: awesome. I’m serious about this. Considered by many to be the best winemaker in Slovenia, Edi and his son Aleks produce wine very close to the Friuli wine region in Italy, but most will agree it tastes more French than Italian, having fermented and aged in oak rather than stainless steel. A dinner in a nearby castle added to the elegance of incredible Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and a white blend that literally kept me asking for and drinking more.

Friuli

Our first taste of Italian wines included the rare wines of Miani.  Literally, the whole state of Illinois only receives 9-12 bottles from this winery, so it was an unbelievable treat to meet the unassuming Enzo Pontoni and taste his notable Sauvignon Blanc and other fine wines. Pontoni’s good friend Paolo Meroi met us next at Trattoria al Parco for lunch, where Meroi sells approximately 80 percent of the wine he makes.  Interestingly, the restaurant recalled my trip to Argentina because a parilla-like, open-hearth grill was set up with beef, sausages and other smoky, sizzling meats.

Trentino Alto Adige

And how does one top a morning like that?  Why drinking the unpretentious Italian sparkling wine, Prosecco, of course. Trevisiol offered three types of Prosecco, in addition to a sparkling Moscato wine, that were delightfully quaffable. That evening, we left Trentino for Veneto and the Valpolicella hills.  Producing only 100-200 cases of wine each year, Giuseppe Lonardi is known as one of the best Amarone producers.  However, he is also right in the heart of Valpolicella, and his Valpolicella wines are extraordinary.  I think it might have been at our dinner here that my poor friend learned the Italian word that is so similar to his name: Troy vs. troya. It suddenly explained the strange looks he had gotten upon introducing himself to Italians.  Not many would like announcing that their name is “Bitch” Clements.

Piemonte

Here we got a good helping of robust red Barbaresco and Barbera wines. At Poderi Elia, Frederico Stella and his grandfather Felice made us feel like family as we sampled these incredible Italian reds and they showed us around. At Tre Donne, where a trio of sisters rules this winery, we had more of these luscious Barbaresco and Barbera wines along with notable Moscato.

Valle d’Aosta

Another region, and two small winemakers once again dazzled us with their creations, but this time with the majestic backdrop of the Italian Alps.  At Lo Triolet, we lingered over Pinot Grigio and Gamay. Just west of Turin, we visited Anselmet where we sampled Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau and several reds, despite the winery’s alpine location. Once again, the northern Italian cuisine treated us to meat-laden meals, homemade gnocchi, polenta and braised radicchio.

It was impossible not to fall in love with the simplicity of the food and artisanal winemaking in these regions. But, alas, it was time to return home. After a slight Banana Rapida detour towards Switzerland and train trip back to Verona and then Venice, my good friend Troya and I were nestled in airplane seats, reliving the sensory celebrations we’d had for nearly a week in northern Italy.

If you want a taste of this experience first hand, join us at the Hinsdale Wine Shop on Thursday, March 10, 7-9 p.m. to taste some of the wines we brought back along with light hors d’oeuvres. An RSVP is required for this $25/person event. To RSVP, e-mail sean@hinsdalecellars.com or call (630) 654-9862.

2008 Omrah Pinot Noir

Click your ruby slippers together for this vibrant ruby-colored wine that has all the luscious, earthy pinot spice you long for. A smoky aroma introduces its everpresent kirschness, but alongside other red fruits (strawberry, raspberry, currants).  Look for smooth undertones of vanilla, chocolate and even cinnamon as a result of new French oak barrel aging. This is a smooth, even silky wine, but with a full-bodied Australian backbone. Polished tannins and tempered acidity make for a wine that is the perfect sidekick to your favorite steak and braised portabellas.

2009 Plantagenet Great Southern Riesling

Want to sample a bit of the “up and coming?” Then try the clean, crisp taste of a Southern Australian Riesling. Plantagenet serves up a premium quality Riesling with this gorgeous straw-colored specimen. Employing cool processing temperatures and minimal exposure to oxygen, the winemakers are able to preserve fruit character and minimize premature aging. The result is a youthful wine with lively citrus aromas that recall not only the fruit, but its zest, the blossoms and the slatey soil upon which it grows. This crisp, exciting wine joins characteristic old world Riesling flavor with new world freshness that is purported to develop toasty, honeyed characteristics so it can be enjoyed over the next 10-20 years. Taste it at its best alongside your “shrimps on the barby.”

That is why it shouldn’t come as a big surprise that when beers are given this same sort of attention, they too become works of art to be enjoyed by all the senses. Call them what you want – craft beers, microbrews, artisanal beers – they are the malt beverages that are rocking the beer world, thanks to the creative and attentive route these beer makers have taken.

Take me to Belgium, please

For me, the masters of the “craft” beer are the Belgians. Beer connoisseurs know it for its wide array of beers which number more than 500 and provide a beer-tasting experience far different than traditional pilsners and lagers. Whether it is the sour-tasting Geuze, a cherry-flavored Kriek, a Hoegarden “white” beer or the many monastery brews like Westmalle, these beers are a defining part of Belgian, and specifically Flemish culture.

Visit Belgium, and one quickly learns that the monks have long been at work developing beer that is unlike anything else in the world.  Some say that monasteries got started in the beer business when water wasn’t safe to drink, so they made and drank beer instead.

Whatever the origin, Belgian monasteries make wonderful, albeit sometimes very potent Trappist ales. Belgian golden ales, such as Duvel, Piraat and Delirium Tremens, have a uniquely aromatic delivery that is almost as heavenly (no pun intended, Duvel Fans) as their unique almost floral taste. For the unacquainted, the potent nature of these brews can come as a surprise, but gosh darn it if they aren’t some of the most delicious beers I have ever had. But Belgium has is a universe of unique beers, and I believe it is because the beer culture is quintessentially “craft,” nearly all being made in smaller quantities with personal attention and an eye toward creating unique beer experiences. In my mind, most Belgian beers provide an experience that is about as faraway from pilsner as one can find him or herself.  BTW:  Delirium Tremens was voted best beer in the world in 1998, so seriously—this is good stuff.

India, really?

One of the most popular beer styles seen among craft beer makers is the India Pale Ale.  And there’s a good reason for this:  it’s damn good, and the category seems to have a lot of latitude. The question many may have is how is India involved in this wonderful group of beers. Considered a subcategory of the Brits’ pale ales, the IPA dates back to the 1700s when the British sent beer to their troops in India, loaded with extra hops and alcohol to preserve it better for the long ship ride there. Those characteristics in IPAs are still true today. Versions like that from Sierra Nevada, Dogfish Head, Chinook are described as being American IPAs, which differs slightly from the British style. However, other than their usual hoppy nature, IPAs, American or otherwise, are not a consistent entity. Stone IPA, for example, is dry hopped for an extra two weeks to develop its own unique taste and aroma. And thankfully that creativity resulted in great beer that earned it a 100-point rating from RateBeer.

Pub Lovers Unite

Craft beers were made for pubs. But short of enjoying a Euro pale lager while singing rounds of O’ Danny Boy at the corner tavern, we can try to replicate that enjoyment at home or with friends with the bottled variety as well. The nice thing about craft beer is that it can cater to the specific tastes you enjoy in your beer.  If you like your beer more malty, Double Bastard Ale might be just the one for you. If you like one of those floral, less carbonated British lagers, then you might prefer a Samuel Smith. They key, most likely, as you explore this ever-expanding market is to know what you like. Beer tastings and taking advice from people you trust can lead you to your new favorite brew. For folks who like variety in their beer, craft beers are a boon because they are only going to grow.

I live in Germany where all beer is local so distribution can be minimized.  Beck’s beer may be big up north where it is made, but it is nearly impossible to find here in southern Germany. And that’s okay because we have Stuttgart-made beers that are equally good or better that don’t have to be shipped cross-country. So, as microbrews grow and we have more local options, we have the opportunity to pop open a cold one and even feel good about doing our part in reducing our dependence on foreign oil. It’s a bit of a leap, but what the heck; I’ll drink to that.

A German octopus with impressive psychic abilities (at least when it comes to anticipating winners and losers in World Cup 2010) has predicted Spain will be victorious at Sunday’s final match against the Netherlands. This is the first time the team has ever qualified for the finals.  And it’s clear why they have done so — the youthful team plays with an obvious passion that is beautiful to watch. For oenophiles, Spanish wines too are attracting more attention and fans this year as wine producers possess devotion, passion and skill, much like the popularized España strikers David Villa, Carles Puyol or Xavi.

Lucky for me, I recently visited Spain and got to experience some of its great wine stars first hand, such as Perfum De Vi Blanc from producer Raventos i Blanc and winemaker Pepe Raventos.  As we approached the vineyard, a striking circular courtyard surrounded a majestic 500-year-old oak tree, unfortunately toppled by a recent storm.  Considered a winery icon, this tree has witnessed the changes and growth in the Raventos operation since 1497—18 generations of winemakers who have worked the 90 hectares of historic vineyard that lie about 30 minutes west of Barcelona in the Catalunya region.  The clean, contemporary architecture with its mix of large skylights and modern arches hints at the family’s keen interest in tapping modern technology to protect the land through biodynamic viticulture to produce truly remarkable wines.  The Raventos are probably best known for their sparkling cavas, but it was this 50/50 blend of Muscat and Macabeo grapes that “wow-ed” me during our tastings.

Macabeo, also known as Viura, is a hearty grape that is often blended into cavas and has become popular in France’s Roussillon area. The grape produces mildly acidic and young white wines that are light, lively, refreshing and perfect for early use as evidenced in this 2009 Perfum.  The grape, however, that puts the “perfume” in the Perfum is clearly the Muscat, which is known for its distinctive floral aroma. (Interesting fact: Muscat grapes have been found to carry large concentrations of flavonoid antioxidants, even at the same level as red wines, which is good for the heart when drunk in moderation, of course.)

The final result of these two grapes is a blend that, as I have said before, is like no other. Initially, it has a hypnotic floral nose, followed by the fresh and lively florality in taste.  There are hints of melon, pear and citrus that make it a perfect match to a hot summer day.  It has a good balance between the mouth-filling character of the Muscat and the freshness of Macabeo. I challenge you to stop at one glass.  I think it’s impossible.

So with a forecast here in Hinsdale of nearly 90-degree weather Sunday for the World Cup finals, it seems like the perfect time to make sure you have some Perfum chilling in preparation.  Whether the octopus is right or wrong, whether he’s a fan of Spanish wines or not, whether you are indifferent to soccer games or octopus, this is a wine that is just perfect for any hot summer day.

Wine Spectator has just named the 2007 vintage Pinot Noir California’s best ever. What does this mean? Besides price increases across the board, it means you should get your hands on this vintage right away.

The Santa Rita Hills are located in the larger Santa Barbara region of California, about 100 miles North of Los Angeles. The area is one of the state’s premier Pinot Noir districts, garnering an overall rating of 93 points for the 2007 vintage, with many of its wines scoring much higher.

A.P. Vin

95 points

Perhaps the wine with the one of the best values on Wine Spectator’s “recommended list” is the A.P. Vin from Santa Rita Hills. This Pinot scored a staggering 95 points, yet is still selling at the low price of $48 / bottle.

“Superrich, bordering on syrupy, with dense, focused, concentrated plum, blueberry and blackberry fruit that’s thick and persistent, with wonderful length and concentration.”

- James Laube, WS

Melville

Estate

This 2007 is sure to impress, coming from the respected Melville Santa Rita Hills Estate. Aged in French Oak and gently racked straight into your bottle. It is unrated as of yet, but you can bet it will be scoring well.

“ With a pretty, dark red-blue hue, this wine opens with lifted fruit punch aromatics of black raspberry, black cherry, fig and watermelon. Spice nuances of pink peppercorns, oolong tea, iron and sesame seed follow. This wine balances the complexity with feminine grace as hints of purple flowers and hibiscus radiate while also yielding to oceanic themes of sand and iodine. These aspects manifest cohesively on the palate bolstering its presence with significant texture and verve.”

The 2007 Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noirs experienced a “Goldilocks” year, the weather being not too hot, not too cold, but just right. You can expect your wine to come out much the same way, just right.