Old vs. New: February red cuvées offer taste of both

It’s really an age-old debate. Tradition versus new-fangled modernity. Wisdom versus edgy smarts. Subtle charm versus unrestrained boldness. And, in this case, we’re talking about wine, not some family-owned business that falls into the hands of the youthful upstart. Wine critics will rave about “Old World” balance of one wine, and then turn around to compliment another wine’s immediately drinkable  “New World” rambunctious-ness. They generalize that wines from France, Italy and other European environs possess “Old World” characteristics of subtlety and elegance and New World wines (from everywhere else) come with lusciousness, lower acidity and higher alcohol levels. Who’s to say if these generalizations hold true or which style is even better?  You are!  This month, members of Hinsdale’s Inspired Wine Club are offered a treat of two red wine blends that should showcase the two styles: the Syrah-dominating French blend versus the California Central Coast red blend with only 2% Syrah. Surprisingly, they make for fair competitors and perhaps turn those generalizations upside down, but if you’re like those of us here in Hinsdale Cellars, you’ll find them both to be winners.

Pi’nouf 2009 Languedoc Red, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

Pronounced “peee –nooof,” here is an excellent representative of wines from a part of France considered to be the world’s single biggest wine region, making more wine than the entire United States and “on some of the world’s oldest soils.” Though “Old World” wines are prized for their delicate nature, this Languedoc-Roussillon specimen may throw you off a bit. Even its name translates as “bold, rich, persistent,” and its rich, fleshy Syrah plays heavily in that brashness. With 65% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 10% Carignan, Pi’nouf presents as regal cherry red with purple sheen. It is deeply fruity with a lushness that evokes bittersweet chocolate-covered cherries with smoky vanilla notes. As the winemaker notes, “the palate is medium-to-full-bodied with a long, lingering finish and enough supple tannins to give some classic ‘grip.’” Watch this wine pair perfectly with your heartiest fare or alongside a potent collection of after-dinner cheeses.

Bonny Doon Vineyard 2009 “Contra,” Central Coast, California

Ironically described as a red Rhone blend, this mix of 55% Carignan, 15% Grenache, 14% Mourvedre, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Zinfandel, and 2% Syrah is grown and produced nowhere near the Rhone River. Though considered a “New World” wine, it comes mostly from “old-fangled” grape varieties and from mostly older vineyards, even if they are in Contra Costa County. It is gorgeously rustic with a nose of cherry, licorice, cassis and blackberry. On the palate, it holds a bright acidity with silky tannins. The winemaker describes “Contra” as having important contrasts of “luscious, opulent fruitiness” with a certain degree of austerity, concluding it’s got the “yin and yang of soft and hard, of fruit and earth….” The Wine Advocate described it as “stunning.” The San Francisco Chronicle included it among its top 100 wines for 2010. We think it marries as well with a hearty Provencal stew as it does with a medium-rare grilled Black Angus ribeye.

 

Precious Piemonte

Mention Italian wine, and most will think of a fruity Tuscan Chianti in a straw-wrapped flask sitting on a red-checkered tablecloth with accordion music playing in the background. And that shouldn’t come as much of surprise since Tuscan wines – dare I say Tuscany – has stolen Italy’s spotlight when it comes to food, drink and Italian countryside culture.

However, wine connoisseurs today know that for Italy’s finest wines, one needs to trek further north to the foothills of the Italian Alps known as Piemonte, where the terroir is so unique that few elsewhere in the world would ever attempt to grow its unique and luxurious grapes.

Piemonte’s most revered Nebbiolo grape has been around for centuries, but its most significant road to fame and deliciousness has actually happened in the past 30 years. The Nebbiolo grape is as ubiquitous to Piemonte as Pinot Noir is to Burgundy, but it hasn’t been easy to tame this thick-skinned, high tannin, late-harvesting grape. Until the advent of temperature-controlled barrels, winemakers had trouble softening those thick skins and strong tannins, especially when the aging process was started at the coldest time of the year that would stall fermentation. Often they wound up with wine that even after decades of aging still wouldn’t mellow. Today, Piemonte’s Nebbiolo, Barolo and Barbaresco wines are highly cherished. Interestingly, they come from different villages, but all from that same high-maintenance grape known as Nebbiolo. These are not wines for the weak-hearted. They are robust and with distinctive qualities, invoking some odd descriptors such as tar, licorice, leather and dried stone fruit. Complexity is undoubtedly Nebbiolo’s calling card, and these wines are considered to be among the very best in the world.

And while Burgundy, to which Piemonte is often compared, may be satisfied with having just two famous grape varietals, this region has several well-known wines to its name. Asti Spumante, a light, semisweet sparkling wine gained popularity in the ‘70s because of its clear and easy quaffability.

Gavi is a dry white varietal that many a wine lover has discovered upon tiring of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Italian wine doesn’t necessarily connote white wine beyond that of Pinot Grigio, so it is often a pleasant surprise to taste the crisp, dry Gavi that thrives in the cooler temps of northern Italy.

Other reds of note from this region include Barbera, which is considered the area’s day-to-day, table wine. In fact, this rustic wine is the most widely planted grape in the region.

A lesser-known red but that provides an instantly quaffable wine option is the Dolcetto, which is sometimes compared to Beaujolais because of its highly drinkable fruitiness. It makes an interesting contrast to Nebbiolo because it has little tannin, is much lighter and with very little acid.

While just a highlight of some of Piemonte’s greatest wine assets, wine lovers can enjoy a tasting at Hinsdale Wine Cellars Friday, 6-8 p.m., for some excellent representatives of this region from Sottimano winery.

– Ivy F. Kupec

 

You call it Grenache; I call it Garnacha…

The French may have popularized el Tinto Aragonés a.k.a Grenache as the core blending wine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas or Côtes du Rhône. But when this delightful, less tannic varietal goes back to its roots in Spain, where it actually originates near Rioja, we see gorgeous reds and rosé that show it has truly come home. One sip, and it’s clear, the Spanish climate and terroir (or should I say suelo?) is just what the oenophile ordered. Today’s Spanish Garnacha brings forth complexity and depth. Noted for its body and ability to make other wines taste even better, sometimes Garnacha is equally brilliant on its own. This month, Hinsdale Cellars gives Inspired Wine Club members a chance to taste and compare two Spanish Garnacha wines – one that showcases the grape solamente, and the other incorporating a bit of Tempranillo to give the wine even more heft.

Fagus de Coto de Hayas, Garnacha 2008

An intense garnet wine, the nose here also conveys an intensity of red fruit, spice and oakiness. On the palate, this luscious somewhat oaky red brings forth vanilla and raspberry jamminess with hints of licorice and chocolate that are made even more impressive with a bit of decanting. This Garnacha is balanced, rich and most definitely satisfying. The Penin Guide on Spanish Wine scored this particular vintage 90 out of 100 points, saying “Never before has a Garnacha wine been so close to perfection.” In 2007, the wine won a silver medal in the International Wine Challenge in London. For a special treat, pair it with wild game, a succulent pork roast or as an accompaniment to ripe sheep cheese.

Don Ramon Campo de Borja, 2008

With an addition of 25% Tempranillo, one might worry that this full-bodied Garnacha would overwhelm the senses. However, this deep ruby-colored smile-maker provides a welcoming, albeit complex and intense aroma that leads to a luxurious full-fruited wine – perfect for quaffing on a cold winter’s night, enjoying with a hearty stew or serving with your homemade tapas of charcuterie and assorted cheeses. It is smooth, well structured and with a soft, rich finish. In other words, this Garnacha is delightfully drinkable and perfect for the red wine lover. You will quickly see why Garnacha is the third most planted grape in Spain.

 

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