A German octopus with impressive psychic abilities (at least when it comes to anticipating winners and losers in World Cup 2010) has predicted Spain will be victorious at Sunday’s final match against the Netherlands. This is the first time the team has ever qualified for the finals.  And it’s clear why they have done so — the youthful team plays with an obvious passion that is beautiful to watch. For oenophiles, Spanish wines too are attracting more attention and fans this year as wine producers possess devotion, passion and skill, much like the popularized España strikers David Villa, Carles Puyol or Xavi.

Lucky for me, I recently visited Spain and got to experience some of its great wine stars first hand, such as Perfum De Vi Blanc from producer Raventos i Blanc and winemaker Pepe Raventos.  As we approached the vineyard, a striking circular courtyard surrounded a majestic 500-year-old oak tree, unfortunately toppled by a recent storm.  Considered a winery icon, this tree has witnessed the changes and growth in the Raventos operation since 1497—18 generations of winemakers who have worked the 90 hectares of historic vineyard that lie about 30 minutes west of Barcelona in the Catalunya region.  The clean, contemporary architecture with its mix of large skylights and modern arches hints at the family’s keen interest in tapping modern technology to protect the land through biodynamic viticulture to produce truly remarkable wines.  The Raventos are probably best known for their sparkling cavas, but it was this 50/50 blend of Muscat and Macabeo grapes that “wow-ed” me during our tastings.

Macabeo, also known as Viura, is a hearty grape that is often blended into cavas and has become popular in France’s Roussillon area. The grape produces mildly acidic and young white wines that are light, lively, refreshing and perfect for early use as evidenced in this 2009 Perfum.  The grape, however, that puts the “perfume” in the Perfum is clearly the Muscat, which is known for its distinctive floral aroma. (Interesting fact: Muscat grapes have been found to carry large concentrations of flavonoid antioxidants, even at the same level as red wines, which is good for the heart when drunk in moderation, of course.)

The final result of these two grapes is a blend that, as I have said before, is like no other. Initially, it has a hypnotic floral nose, followed by the fresh and lively florality in taste.  There are hints of melon, pear and citrus that make it a perfect match to a hot summer day.  It has a good balance between the mouth-filling character of the Muscat and the freshness of Macabeo. I challenge you to stop at one glass.  I think it’s impossible.

So with a forecast here in Hinsdale of nearly 90-degree weather Sunday for the World Cup finals, it seems like the perfect time to make sure you have some Perfum chilling in preparation.  Whether the octopus is right or wrong, whether he’s a fan of Spanish wines or not, whether you are indifferent to soccer games or octopus, this is a wine that is just perfect for any hot summer day.

winemaking. However, that is exactly the case at Matetic Vineyards, which is often singled out as one of Chile’s best winemakers, especially when it comes to its Pinot Noir.  Soft, loping alpacas weed the grounds there, and grape skins, cow manure and grass make for the compost that is later used to nurture vines.  This is a far cry from the 1600s when the Spanish brought Chile its first grape vines while staking claim to this wonderful country.  Later, they would try to limit Chile’s wine production, but to no avail.

Considered a New World star, Matetic in particular continues to garner attention and acclaim for its breathtaking wines.  Located in San Antonio Valley, the Croatian Matetic family only started making wine here in 1999, but have a history farming the Chilean land that dates back 100 years.  They are clearly in touch with the land that makes their fine wines, and lucky Hinsdale Inspired Wine Club members get a virtual trip there in June with two of the winemaker’s extraordinary top-line EQ wines – two varietals definitely not traditionally associated with Chile.

EQ Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Twenty years ago, Chile was known only for its reds, but in the unique climate of San Antonio Valley, Sauvignon Blanc has found a very comfortable home.  Cool temps and reddish clay soil that contains decomposed granite and quartz lend a unique minerality to this Sauvignon Blanc.  The nose of delicate tropical fruits and distinct lemon blossoms are a wonderful entry to this light-colored wine. To the palate, it provides a complex experience of minerality and a gentle balance of acidity and soft sweetness of fruity flavors.  Winemaker serving suggestions: oily fishes, ceviche, sea urchins, oysters or sheep cheeses.

EQ Pinot Noir 2006

Matetic Pinot Noir is considered to be among the very best pinot noirs coming out of Chile.  Wine critics, despite generally thinking of Chile as cabernet country, have questioned whether Pinot Noir and Syrah might be its true destiny, recognizing San Antonio Valley as seemingly perfect terroir for this grape and Matetic as a leader.  The 2006 presents as an elegant deep ruby red, calling forth gentle aromas of strawberry jam, plum and even a hint of anise.  The texture is soft and elegant, the acidity well-balanced, and the finish long and beautiful. Winemaker serving suggestions: fish, goat cheese, cured ham, lean red meat, pasta.

Throughout the Iceland’s “erupting” news, I couldn’t help but recall a geologist friend’s comments about volcanoes and wines after he returned from Cape Verde. He had traveled to a remote island with an impressive volcanic landscape, including Cha das Caldeiras, a volcanic plane. “From the (only) town on the island it takes you many hours to drive to Cha das Caldeiras,” said Professor Falk Amelung from the University of Miami in a recent e-mail. “There was nothing there other than lava and…vineyards. At least that’s the way I remember it!”

What’s in a soil?
Many of our favorite wine regions – Napa Valley, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, New Zealand – benefit from volcanic soils that include mineral-rich ingredients like basalt, pumice, perlite, jory and tufa. From glassy basalt that is rich in calcium, iron and magnesium to light, powdery perlite, these volcanic soil components vary in quantity and mineral composition.

“Minerals that come out of volcanoes are, by definition, stable at high temperatures,” said Professor Tim Dixon, University of Miami marine geologist and oenophile. “Upon eruption, they are rapidly chilled to glass, so the minerals are in a metastable state. Hence, they can rapidly break down – quick in a geologic sense, which means tens to hundreds of years. Ultimately, this process releases potash and phosphate, two critical nutrients normally in short supply.” In other words, volcanic soil makes for good soil chemistry.

Geologist colleague, also at the University of Miami, Shimon Wdowinski adds that these soils’ iron and magnesium could also be important. Volcanologists from University of California-Santa Barbara credit mineral-rich volcanic soils, too, noting that many people will risk heavy ash, lava flows and unbelievable damage to grow crops and raise livestock in these potentially dangerous areas because they are so bountiful. For example, except for the volcanic area near Naples, farming in southern Italy is difficult because of the prevalent limestone. Naples, however, has Mt. Vesuvius, and its two eruptions 35,000 and 12,000 years ago left mineral-rich soil that still is considered Italy’s best agricultural land.

According to Jeff Cox in The Wine News, the older, but not necessarily most dominant theory on volcanic soil’s benefits to wine, however, has to do with drainage. “For many years, the conventional wisdom, perpetuated by UC-Davis teachings, was that a soil’s drainage capacity, rather than some ineffable nutrient, had the biggest influence on the resulting quality of a wine.”

Professor Dixon also noted that volcanic soils provide important drainage. “Grape vines hate ” wet feet,” and volcanic terrains are usually sloped, hence drainage is good.” Winemakers will quickly tout the benefits of struggling vines that have to dig deep for their water and mineral sources, establishing stronger root systems in the process that make for heartier plants and fruit that is less fleshy and more concentrated in flavor.

The Santa Barbara volcanologists note yet another reason for volcanic soil’s benefits: its reaction to the sun: heat from the sun releases key elements from the rocks, making them accessible to the plants within. “Volcanic rocks make some of the best soils on earth because they… have a wide variety of common elements and are readily chemically separated into elemental components.”

Terroir, terroir, terroir
Though terroir sounds a lot like terrain, the French say it is much more than the ground and soil—it’s about the interconnectedness of all elements that ultimately produce great wines. It’s fascinating to see areas like the Mosel River Valley and Pfalz regions of Germany, that don’t seem to have any active volcanoes these days but still benefit from volcanic soil that remains to produce vibrant Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

Likewise, according to Cox, Napa Valley has an age-old connection. “Beginning about four or five million years ago, Napa Valley was a region of active volcanism. This ancient volcanic rock comes to the surface today on the lower slopes on either side of the valley.”

According to the Santa Barbara volcanologists, “after the Mt. St. Helens eruption in 1980, people who were living downwind from the eruption were concerned that the ash that fell would be detrimental to the agricultural farmlands of eastern Washington. This concern was countered by a group of knowledgeable earth scientists. Volcanic ash can be considered as a time-release capsule, rich in nutrients.”

While geologists know generally how volcanic ash or soil help better winemaking, it is hardly the only factor. So many variables play into producing great wine that winemakers seem to be able to rely on skill, experience and science only so much. Sometimes, they also need a little luck or magic.

So to help celebrate the segue of spring into summer and wonderful American traditions, the Inspired Wine Club brings two all-American California wines – a beautiful red for those steaks or other hearty fare you will inevitably bring to your grill and a summery white that pairs well with fish fresh from the market or shrimp on the “Barby.”

2007 Sean Minor Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa

A deep ruby wine, this Cab is tempered with 13% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.  The result is an alluring berry mix.  The nose says ripe cherry, cassis, and blackberries.  The flavors continue the berry rush combined with savory spices.  Some will note cedar in it as well.  Thanks to the blending, this fruit-forward, medium-bodied wine has soft tannins and a sweet oak balance that provides a long, lingering finish.

2008 Dry Creek Fume Blanc, Sonoma

This wine is a perfect match for the beginning of summery days with its wonderful fresh-cut grass aromas mixed with herbs, asparagus, gooseberries and even green chiles.  A citrusy treat, this pale gold wine is refreshingly crisp and well balanced with lemon zest, cucumber and mineral flavors. It has a dry, crisp finish, making for a delicate wine that can be enjoyed with the lighter foods that we enjoy so much in warmer weather.

According to the Aussie survey of 1,000 people, only 7 percent could recall the date of Mother’s Day, which happens to be the same at the U.S. celebration (May 9), and apparently, we don’t put on our thoughtful caps when selecting presents for our underappreciated mothers. Most unwanted gift item? Cleaning appliances (aka vacuums), fitness equipment, foot spas, kitchen gadgets, and items purchased obviously at the last-minute.

Mother’s Day Help to the Rescue!

Do I even need to mention this to you again?  Be inspired.  Buy your mother membership to the Hinsdale Inspired Wine Club!  It’s the perfect Mother’s Day gift and it keeps on giving, month after month.  Your mother may like it so much you can do it again next year!

Sure, your mom would like to tour Napa Valley or sit on a sunny terrace in Provence, sipping some refreshing rosé.  Maybe she’d love to enjoy a rich Malbec in the dusty vineyards, watching the sunset in Mendoza.  Those things aren’t necessarily the easiest to give, especially when we have forgotten when Mother’s Day is and/or have waited until the last minute to buy our beloved parent a gift.  (We should know better, but so many things get in the way, right?)

So, here’s a way to capture those travels and wines in one convenient gift – membership in the largest wine club in the Chicago area, boasting more than 400 members. That means more buying power to find better wines and get better values. For $34.95/month (no long-term contract required), members receive:

* Two fine wines each month, valued on average at $50 and selected through a rigorous tasting process

* Informative literature on Wine Club wines, including tasting notes and reviews

* Special discounts on the month’s wine, if you decide to buy more.

* Special alerts on wine specials and store events, and

* 6- and 12-month memberships are available, as well, at $209.70 and $419.40, respectively.

Australians may not know everything, but of the two thirds of “mums” who actually received a Mother’s Day gift last year, 47 percent “weren’t happy with it, with 15 percent saying it was bought at the last minute, the survey indicated.”  Tsk, tsk.  With all that good wine down under, you’d think they’d have a wine club like Hinsdale’s to prevent such a disaster. Hinsdale Cellars, with its Inspired Wine Club, offers helpful, unique expertise and is most likely to introduce you and your favorite Mom to your next favorite wines.

For more information, come visit the store at 12 E. Hinsdale Ave., the Web site at http://www.hinsdalecellars.com or call 630.654.9862.

Wine, not Whines, for Mom

Perhaps talking about Mothers’ Day approximately a month ahead of time would seem a bit premature to some people.  However, as a mother, I have learned that my family doesn’t seem to hear me the first time I say anything unless it’s “hot chocolate chip cookies just came out of the oven…” Even then, I can quickly lose out to a heated Wii game or a captivating episode of The Simpsons.

That said, Mother’s Day is just around the corner on May 9th, and this is one mother who is willing to stand up and speak for the masses: You know what moms like?  We like wine.   Big surprise on a wine blog, right?  Well, but then you must know that the women in your life who also get to be mothers are likely nodding in agreement right about now.

In fact, they are not only nodding in agreement but buying wine as they do so.  According to the Washington Post, women make 57 percent of U.S. wine purchases.  Even more staggering and written in scholarly-speak, scientists from the International Journal of Wine Business Research estimate 80 percent of the wine sold in the United States is to women.  And they know a lot about us, too.  They conclude that women are more apt than men to seek information from wine store employees, a server, sommelier or winery personnel than men.  We actually read those labels and shelf tags that wine guys provide for us, and we tend to love to buy wines with medals and awards. I hate generalizations about any group of people because it can often lead to prejudice, but in this case, I must say I can corroborate those findings.

Mom-Worthy Wine

So, where do you find wine worth your favorite Mom’s time?  She’s obviously dear enough to you that you have suffered through this blog and are now pondering whether a month could possibly be enough time to get her the gift she deserves. The key here is to think about how wines take people on journeys.  A sip of a sensuous Malbec provides immediate transport to vibrant Argentina.  The right kind of Grenache-rich rosé can recall her backpacking experiences in Europe after college that led her to Aix-en-Provence. And a dry Riesling from Australia reminds her of the Outback trip she’d like to take for her next milestone birthday.  There’s a way to capture those travels and wines in one convenient gift, and that’s the Hinsdale Cellars Inspired Wine Club – the largest wine club in the Chicago area, boasting more than 400 members. That means more buying power to find better wines and get better values.

2007 Charles Smith Wines  Eve Chardonnay, Walla Walla Valley, Wash.
As a former rock band manager in Scandinavia, Charles Smith has ensured his wines “rock” also, and this Chardonnay is no exception. Think Granny Smith apples with a hint of lemon, softened by an edge of melon and some honey. This Chardonnay has a remarkable crisp, light and bright taste. It is not your typical Chardonnay. It is indeed luscious, with a thick, creamy mouthfeel, but with just notes of butter and almonds that accent its unusual minerality. It gets its name from the Garden of Eden. Charles Smith believed it was “sinfully tempting” – a silky, perfumy, seductive wine. Of course, it is quite at home in your own garden, too, making it the perfect white to welcome in spring.

2005 Mettler Petite Sirah , Lodi, Calif.
Looking for a change in the red wines you are drinking this spring? This award-winning Petite Sirah may be just the ticket. For those unfamiliar with this lesser-known varietal that originated in France, you will find Petite Sirah is never particularly subtle, and this organic one is indeed a burst of bold, fruit-forward lusciousness. Described as a “deep purple that almost stains the glass,” this wine brings forth its spicy, jammy blueberry and blackberry flavors with an amazing mouthfeel. A pronounced and prolonged finish brings out complex oak undertones and hints of vanilla and coffee. This is a red to brighten those drizzly days when spring can feel more like fall.

• Women make up 52 percent of the adult population.
• Women buy 57 percent of the wine consumed in the United States.
• In 1890, 10 percent of the winemakers were estimated to be women.
• In 1990, women still only accounted for 10 percent of winemakers.

While women likely play a more prominent role in winemaking than this seemingly low-ball estimate, there is no denying that many of the wines they make – most likely because of skills and experience rather than gender – are some of the best in the world. So, in celebration of Women’s History Month, here are five great winemakers who happen to be women that deserve your attention:

Kris Curran
Sea Smoke pinot noir – as featured in Sideways – is one of the most coveted wines with such limited productions that even the winemaker has to pay for her very limited share, and Kris Curran was there making some of its early 2000 vintages. A dog lover with four German shepherds, she chose to major in animal science, rather than enology because the college she preferred to UC-Davis, didn’t have that program. She says, she still got her fair share of chemistry and biology, and her natural proclivity to producing sensational wines is clear. In 2008, she moved on to Foley Wines for new challenges with Pinot Noir, but this is a winemaker who seems to have a golden touch with the vines anywhere she goes.

Laura Catena
Vice president of Argentina’s famous Bodega Catena Zapata, where she does the research that leads to some of the top blends for her father, Nicolás Catena, Laura Catena is also the owner of her own “Luca” label and has written a book about Argentinean wines. Many who frequent Hinsdale Cellars will remember Sean Chaudhry’s forays in Argentina, which included memorable dinners and tastings at Bodega Catena Zapata. A believer in Cabernet-Malbec blends, Catena is producing some of those most notable and luscious reds we have come to love and even expect from Argentina.

Heidi Barrett, California
Robert Parker Jr. refers to Heidi Barrett as the “First Lady of Wine,” and it’s no surprise as she has been the winemaker behind renowned Screaming Eagle, a Cabernet that consistently thrills wine lovers and collectors. Barrett is the only winemaker ever to have received five perfect scores from the top wine critics in the country, and in 2008, she moved onto Fantesca Estate and Winery, a boutique wine producer in Napa Valley, still leading the way when it comes to unique, special California wines.

Ann Colgin
“Superstar” is how many refer to Ann Colgin, who is known for building a world-renowned reputation for California’s small production, hand-crafted red wines. While her Lamb Vineyard wines have drawn special attention, Colgin Cellars wines are all sought-after, often hard-to-find wines. Reportedly, that is because annual production is limited to just 300 cases, with more than 4,000 people on a mailing list, clamoring to have some of her latest efforts.

Celia Masyczek
Former Staglin Family winemaker, Celia Masyczek is now one of the most sought-after consultants in Napa, having earned her fame with high-end Napa Valley reds. Masyczek cut her teeth in winemaking in Medford, Ore., where she grew up as the daughter of a wine collector and home winemaker. After a fermentation science degree from UC-Davis, she may have started her career with an eye toward chemistry, but ultimately she has let her own sense of taste lead her to many noteworthy wines. As freelance winemaker, Masyczek is based at Laird Family Estate and has nine clients. Some of her past and current clients are: Hartwell, D.R. Stephens, Husic, Rocca, Cornerstone and recently Scarecrow from the JJ Cohn vineyard (whose 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon earned a Robert Parker Jr. 98-point rating.).

With winemakers like these, it makes it irresistible to make a toast to them with some of their latest creations. See what Hinsdale Cellars has in store today!

For Antonio Sanguineti, his brilliant yellow Audi wagon that speeds throughout the Tuscan countryside is as much motif as it is automotive in his life full of bold moves, including the bold wines he crafts so carefully and which have earned him the nickname, Il Maestro.

The story goes that his family owned vineyards, but when he was but a child the family fell on hard times and had to sell those vineyards.  The fruitful land was gone, but clearly not the expertise that evolved.  A winemaker without a vineyard is not so unusual these days, and Sanguineti’s palate and gift for making incredible wine blends led him to work as a consultant, often being paid in wine grapes that he hand-selects to make his unusual and provocative limited production wines. Today, his Small Vineyards company is known for its unique wines that focus on quality not quantity.

Sanguineti’s flamboyant personality conveys to his unique Italian wines that garner constant praise.  Lucky for Hinsdale, he is bringing at least five of those wines to town Saturday, Feb. 27^th, 5-8 p.m., for a $20 tasting, that is sure to stun the taste buds. Hinsdale Cellars will host the event that includes: one white, Verdicchio, followed by Chianti, a couple of Super Tuscans, and a Brunello.  (Note: Many credit his il Maestro nickname to his incredible Brunello.)

The evening promises to be a brief, but magical oenological trip to Tuscany certain to bring you back home a bit dizzy from the whirlwind sensory tour.  Afterall, Sanguineti is a man of adventure whose favorite toast is: “May we all die young — as late as possible!”

Tasting fees will be applied to any purchases that evening, and limited reservations are still available for the event. Call 630.654.9862 to save yourself a place.