When Life Gives You Volcanoes, Make Wine

As Iceland’s volcano continues to emit smoke and lava – albeit in more modest amounts – we’ve learned that volcanic ash is apparently bad for airplanes and air travelers. The good news is that volcanic soil seems to be quite good for wine.

Throughout the Iceland’s “erupting” news, I couldn’t help but recall a geologist friend’s comments about volcanoes and wines after he returned from Cape Verde. He had traveled to a remote island with an impressive volcanic landscape, including Cha das Caldeiras, a volcanic plane. “From the (only) town on the island it takes you many hours to drive to Cha das Caldeiras,” said Professor Falk Amelung from the University of Miami in a recent e-mail. “There was nothing there other than lava and…vineyards. At least that’s the way I remember it!”

What’s in a soil?
Many of our favorite wine regions – Napa Valley, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, New Zealand – benefit from volcanic soils that include mineral-rich ingredients like basalt, pumice, perlite, jory and tufa. From glassy basalt that is rich in calcium, iron and magnesium to light, powdery perlite, these volcanic soil components vary in quantity and mineral composition.

“Minerals that come out of volcanoes are, by definition, stable at high temperatures,” said Professor Tim Dixon, University of Miami marine geologist and oenophile. “Upon eruption, they are rapidly chilled to glass, so the minerals are in a metastable state. Hence, they can rapidly break down – quick in a geologic sense, which means tens to hundreds of years. Ultimately, this process releases potash and phosphate, two critical nutrients normally in short supply.” In other words, volcanic soil makes for good soil chemistry.

Geologist colleague, also at the University of Miami, Shimon Wdowinski adds that these soils’ iron and magnesium could also be important. Volcanologists from University of California-Santa Barbara credit mineral-rich volcanic soils, too, noting that many people will risk heavy ash, lava flows and unbelievable damage to grow crops and raise livestock in these potentially dangerous areas because they are so bountiful. For example, except for the volcanic area near Naples, farming in southern Italy is difficult because of the prevalent limestone. Naples, however, has Mt. Vesuvius, and its two eruptions 35,000 and 12,000 years ago left mineral-rich soil that still is considered Italy’s best agricultural land.

According to Jeff Cox in The Wine News, the older, but not necessarily most dominant theory on volcanic soil’s benefits to wine, however, has to do with drainage. “For many years, the conventional wisdom, perpetuated by UC-Davis teachings, was that a soil’s drainage capacity, rather than some ineffable nutrient, had the biggest influence on the resulting quality of a wine.”

Professor Dixon also noted that volcanic soils provide important drainage. “Grape vines hate ” wet feet,” and volcanic terrains are usually sloped, hence drainage is good.” Winemakers will quickly tout the benefits of struggling vines that have to dig deep for their water and mineral sources, establishing stronger root systems in the process that make for heartier plants and fruit that is less fleshy and more concentrated in flavor.

The Santa Barbara volcanologists note yet another reason for volcanic soil’s benefits: its reaction to the sun: heat from the sun releases key elements from the rocks, making them accessible to the plants within. “Volcanic rocks make some of the best soils on earth because they… have a wide variety of common elements and are readily chemically separated into elemental components.”

Terroir, terroir, terroir
Though terroir sounds a lot like terrain, the French say it is much more than the ground and soil—it’s about the interconnectedness of all elements that ultimately produce great wines. It’s fascinating to see areas like the Mosel River Valley and Pfalz regions of Germany, that don’t seem to have any active volcanoes these days but still benefit from volcanic soil that remains to produce vibrant Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

Likewise, according to Cox, Napa Valley has an age-old connection. “Beginning about four or five million years ago, Napa Valley was a region of active volcanism. This ancient volcanic rock comes to the surface today on the lower slopes on either side of the valley.”

According to the Santa Barbara volcanologists, “after the Mt. St. Helens eruption in 1980, people who were living downwind from the eruption were concerned that the ash that fell would be detrimental to the agricultural farmlands of eastern Washington. This concern was countered by a group of knowledgeable earth scientists. Volcanic ash can be considered as a time-release capsule, rich in nutrients.”

While geologists know generally how volcanic ash or soil help better winemaking, it is hardly the only factor. So many variables play into producing great wine that winemakers seem to be able to rely on skill, experience and science only so much. Sometimes, they also need a little luck or magic.

California Dremin’

May is finally here!  The birds are chirping.  Gardens are coming together, and that sweet smell of spring unfolding into vibrant summer is beckoning.  From Cinco de Mayo to Memorial Day, we have a month that takes us outdoors again.  By the end of May, we will be watching Indy cars zipping around their famous track, smoky barbecues that treat us to an assortment of zesty summertime foods, and swimming pools re-opening and looking fresher and cleaner than ever.  Is there anything more exhilarating than that first dip into a summer pool with clean, clear water that feels as cold as ice, making your skin tingle all over?  But that is the May we love and anticipate during our coldest days of winter.

So to help celebrate the segue of spring into summer and wonderful American traditions, the Inspired Wine Club brings two all-American California wines – a beautiful red for those steaks or other hearty fare you will inevitably bring to your grill and a summery white that pairs well with fish fresh from the market or shrimp on the “Barby.”

2007 Sean Minor Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa

A deep ruby wine, this Cab is tempered with 13% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.  The result is an alluring berry mix.  The nose says ripe cherry, cassis, and blackberries.  The flavors continue the berry rush combined with savory spices.  Some will note cedar in it as well.  Thanks to the blending, this fruit-forward, medium-bodied wine has soft tannins and a sweet oak balance that provides a long, lingering finish.

2008 Dry Creek Fume Blanc, Sonoma

This wine is a perfect match for the beginning of summery days with its wonderful fresh-cut grass aromas mixed with herbs, asparagus, gooseberries and even green chiles.  A citrusy treat, this pale gold wine is refreshingly crisp and well balanced with lemon zest, cucumber and mineral flavors. It has a dry, crisp finish, making for a delicate wine that can be enjoyed with the lighter foods that we enjoy so much in warmer weather.

Show Mom You Care With The Our Inspired Wine Club Today!

I am not making this up.  On the Australian news wire today: “Mums are under-appreciated and forgotten, with most Australians even clueless about the date of Mother’s Day, a survey indicates.”

According to the Aussie survey of 1,000 people, only 7 percent could recall the date of Mother’s Day, which happens to be the same at the U.S. celebration (May 9), and apparently, we don’t put on our thoughtful caps when selecting presents for our underappreciated mothers. Most unwanted gift item? Cleaning appliances (aka vacuums), fitness equipment, foot spas, kitchen gadgets, and items purchased obviously at the last-minute.

Mother’s Day Help to the Rescue!

Do I even need to mention this to you again?  Be inspired.  Buy your mother membership to the Hinsdale Inspired Wine Club!  It’s the perfect Mother’s Day gift and it keeps on giving, month after month.  Your mother may like it so much you can do it again next year!

Sure, your mom would like to tour Napa Valley or sit on a sunny terrace in Provence, sipping some refreshing rosé.  Maybe she’d love to enjoy a rich Malbec in the dusty vineyards, watching the sunset in Mendoza.  Those things aren’t necessarily the easiest to give, especially when we have forgotten when Mother’s Day is and/or have waited until the last minute to buy our beloved parent a gift.  (We should know better, but so many things get in the way, right?)

So, here’s a way to capture those travels and wines in one convenient gift – membership in the largest wine club in the Chicago area, boasting more than 400 members. That means more buying power to find better wines and get better values. For $34.95/month (no long-term contract required), members receive:

* Two fine wines each month, valued on average at $50 and selected through a rigorous tasting process

* Informative literature on Wine Club wines, including tasting notes and reviews

* Special discounts on the month’s wine, if you decide to buy more.

* Special alerts on wine specials and store events, and

* 6- and 12-month memberships are available, as well, at $209.70 and $419.40, respectively.

Australians may not know everything, but of the two thirds of “mums” who actually received a Mother’s Day gift last year, 47 percent “weren’t happy with it, with 15 percent saying it was bought at the last minute, the survey indicated.”  Tsk, tsk.  With all that good wine down under, you’d think they’d have a wine club like Hinsdale’s to prevent such a disaster. Hinsdale Cellars, with its Inspired Wine Club, offers helpful, unique expertise and is most likely to introduce you and your favorite Mom to your next favorite wines.

For more information, come visit the store at 12 E. Hinsdale Ave., the Web site at http://www.hinsdalecellars.com or call 630.654.9862.

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