Money, Markets and Mykonos: My Big, Fat Greek Vacation

Alexis Zorba: Damn it boss, I like you too much not to say it. You’ve got everything except one thing: madness! A man needs a little madness, or else…

Basil: Or else?

Alexis Zorba: …he never dares cut the rope and be free.

Basil: …Teach me to dance….

– From Zorba the Greek

One travels to Greece with a certain degree of expectation. Sparkling blue seas should catch the sun and blind you with Greece’s unstoppable beauty. The scents of garlicky, grilled souvlaki and the sounds of energetic lute music should follow you as you travel through quaint, narrow streets lined with quaint stucco buildings. And you should encounter mustached men gulping ouzo and freely dancing their own version of Zorba’s Sirtaki.

So, when my good, good friend and Cellar Door manager Alex Shamsuddin and I spent eight days in Athens and Mykonos, that was the movie playing in my head as we began our travels. While we failed to see Anthony Quinn or have anyone teach us the secret to life, we did hear firsthand experiences about Greece’s recent economic woes, discover Athens’ central market, and become mesmerized by Mykonos’ splendor.

A taste of reality

The first thing we experienced in Greece was a taste of economic despair—not ours, thankfully. Coming into Athens, our hotel was conveniently situated near Syntagma Square, just downwind from the Acropolis and central to everything, including a huge protest. Greece’s economic hardships were hard to avoid in conversations with the Greeks we met. I lost track of the number of people inquiring about jobs in the United States, asking how to emigrate and relaying their own personal financial woes. You would think in that case tourists would find bargains everywhere, but just the opposite was true. Starbucks would have looked like a bargain compared to our coffee, which was selling for 5 euros/cup (about $7). And if the “Best Bartender in Greece” was telling us the truth, he earned the equivalent of $35/day – that doesn’t buy too many cups of coffee!  So, with all this bad news and warnings of pickpockets everywhere, it was a little hard to get comfortable in Greece…at first. However, Greece is a bit of paradise. And if one believes Zorba the Greek, this is a resilient culture that will rise above. Despite its recent travails, Greece is undeniably full of history, culture, and color and still makes for a restful vacation.

Going to the meat market

Jet lag can drive a person crazy. Unable to sleep, Alex and I decided on our second day to explore Athens – cigars in hand – at its least crowded – 5 a.m. And at that time of day, The Agora or central market was where the action was. We found butchers grinding, carving and macerating every meat you could imagine. Fishmongers, too, were sorting and cleaning fish, and flower vendors and vegetable sellers also received their day’s delivery of fresh, colorful produce. The air there was thick and gamey but the sights spectacular. Peach-colored squash blossoms that are sometimes filled and sometimes just lightly batter-fried were nestled among a brilliant array of colors in the many vegetable and fruit kiosks. The next day and the day after we returned to gaze upon the trays of goat heads or cured pork legs hanging along walls – literally the place was a feast for the senses. We would munch on olives and cheeses as we simply enjoyed walking through the market, listening to the Greek banter. On our second trip there, we discovered the Agora had cafeteria-like restaurants where locals were consuming ouzo even in the morning. We joined in, selecting spiced meatballs that went perfectly with a big glass of Greek frosty beer.

Sure we made it to the historic and massive Acropolis that looms above Athens. And through all our exploring we happened upon the bartender who had been voted best in all of Greece and made the most alluring cocktails. But likely the most memorable part of Athens will be the time spent in the Agora.

Magical Mykonos

Mykonos is the kind of Greece that people dream of. It’s what we see in movies, and when one is there, it’s hard to believe that these narrow gray stone-paved walkways are what they refer to as streets. Whitewashed buildings contrast against the azure sky and matching azure-painted balcony rails, window shutters, and doors. At night, the streets fill up with those who have spent their days sunbathing. Unlike the majority of other men traveling in pairs in Mykonos, we were not wearing skin-tight white t-shirts, hanging inside or outside of the discotheques whose house music radiated down the street, drawing in male European tourists like a Pied Piper.

No, Alex and I instead reveled in the pastoral side of Mykonos. It was back to nature for us with the gorgeous blue water, the blinding white sand, and, oh, the nakedness. No, we weren’t naked, but many around us were—even those guys who would later be sweating on a dance floor rather than lingering in a nice restaurant like we would. Yes, food in Mykonos was lovely, and surprisingly not always seafood. At Namma Barbecue, we had an assortment of grilled meats that went perfectly with an ice-cold glass of crisp, slightly salty Muscadet. However, one of my best meals was at Mouragio where you ordered an appetizer and selected your specific fresh fish from a case that they grilled simply with salt, pepper and olive oil. It was flaky, light and so fresh—one of the best fish dinners I have ever had. I’ve tried to replicate the process at home, but honestly, maybe I need the Greek sun and sand to do so.

After five days in Mykonos, I felt sated, re-energized and ready to return to my own hot Hinsdale sun. It had been a relaxing week, but I couldn’t help thinking of Zorba’s words again: “No more fooling around, not in this place. We’ll pull our pants up and make a pile of money.”

– Sean Chaudhry

 

American Wines with a Sense of Humor

Independence Day is just around the corner and what’s more American than California wines with a little New World humor on the label? That’s right, nothing!  Much like how our forefathers came to this country in bold moves to find their own way, American winemakers have thrived on their own personal frontiers. They have always been mavericks, developing new winemaking techniques and flavors and with a passion that leaves room for a little bit of fun.

For this month’s Inspired Wine Club, we present two beautifully bold American wines: an All-American Zin blend from Wine Guerrilla – “You wouldn’t expect a sissy blend from a revolutionary” and a Central Coast Pinot Noir from Fat Monk – “Behold the Father, Sun and the Central Coast.”  These are not wines for the tender-hearted, but their labels will make you chuckle, and the wines will pair so perfectly with your summer grilled steaks, you will be coming back for more.

2009 Wine Guerrilla Sonoma County Rebel Cru (Zinfandel Blend)

Zins are known for being big and bold, but here is a robust blend that channels some of the most characterful red wine grapes to produce a gratifying match to your hearty summer fare or for sipping alone. Made from 40% Zinfandel, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah, the Rebel Cru provides a balanced, fruit forward, spicy dark wine. Wine Guerrilla describes its wine like this: “It’s like the Fab Four of wine-zin the ‘cute one,’ cab the ‘clever one,’ syrah the ‘quiet one’ and petite sirah the ‘funny one.’ Together, they make beautiful music.” Ah, the perfect accompaniment to any Independence Day celebration.

2009 Fat Monk Central Coast Pinot Noir

Need your own personal fireworks taste explosion in your wine, then you will enjoy this plumy Wild West Pinot with hints of cherry, strawberry and tar. Central Coast has some of California’s best Pinot Noir vineyards, and this 100% Pinot Noir with nine months new and neutral French oak aging provides rich mouth feel, intoxicatingly earthy aroma, and an overall satisfying, complex wine. According to the winemaker, 20 minutes of refrigeration before serving only maximizes the experience. And that’s no joke.

 

Off the Beaten Path: 5 Reds for Dad

Dads love their steak. Sure, they may eat more chicken than beef these days, and vegetarians will quickly pull out their portobellos and claim satisfaction. But on the whole, men love their steak. They save it for special occasions and special people. They stand watch grillside like stewards of meat perfection, mastering the alluring smokiness, taming the sizzle and flare-ups, and even getting a little geeky sometimes when they talk about their grills.

At Hinsdale Cellars, we all agree that the best Father’s Day gift is membership to our Inspired Wine Club where Dad can travel down many different wine roads for six to 12 months. However, if that’s not the direction you want to take this Father’s Day, consider how much he enjoys his traditional Cabernet or Pinot Noir with those precious steaks, and then think about treating him to something new.

Here are five red wine varietals that promise hearty satisfaction. If this year, you want to treat Pops to a new red wine that marries steak well, then here are a few suggestions:

Gigondas

Think red French wine, and one immediately turns to Burgundy, Bordeaux or maybe even the Rhône Valley with a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Outside of the mainstream spotlight, however, are Gigondas, which are gorgeously robust wines with aroma and balance that will get people’s attention and have them asking, “How do you pronounce that wine again?”  Made with mostly Grenache grapes, these wines also include Syrah and Mourvèdre, and this varietal is definitely one of France’s well-kept secrets. These are in-your-face reds that reek masculinity with their spicy, leathery aromas and tannin-rich flavor.

Malbec

Thanks to Sean Chaudhry’s trip to Argentina and his relationship with several Argentine wine makers, we have written about Malbec before. So associated with Argentina and other South American vintners that one might forget Malbec is one of the grapes usually blended in Bordeaux. Malbec, with its inky purple color, is an earthy wine that is often blended. It’s known for its jammy quality with rustic tannins that any good Gaucho would know matches perfectly with his favorite range-fed beef.

Shiraz

Another name for Syrah, Shiraz is best known as the great red wine from Down Under. Reportedly, the Australians don’t expose their Shiraz to as much oak as Cabernets, but they are still lush, fruity wines with softer, balanced tannins that measure up quite nicely with a hearty meal. Mostly Shiraz brings forth berry, black cherry, plum and pepper flavors, but they can also have hints of licorice, spices, chocolate and even coffee.

Pinotage

Considered South Africa’s signature varietal, Pinotage promises a rich, earthy, full-flavored wine. Developed in 1925, this varietal is a combination of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. It is possible to find lighter variations of this red wine, but it is best known as a smoky, brambly wine that pairs well with hearty fare and is reminiscent of fine Pinot Noir. This wine ages exceptionally well. Color is deep red with purple tinges and the texture is velvety.

Amarone

Want to splurge on Dad, then this might be the wine for you!  Never listed as a bargain wine, Amarone is considered one of Italy’s most elegant red wines. Picked late and made with partially dried grapes, Amarone is known for its intensity and its thicker texture. One might think that this sounds like the makings of a sweet wine, but that would be wrong. If done well, this blend of primarily Corvina grapes, mixed with Rondinella, Molinara and Negrara is a dry, dense, earthy wine that seems to have almost a cult-like following. If Amarone’s grape blend sounds familiar, it’s likely because they are the same ones used in making Valpolicella, the other big red from this region, but serving at only 11 percent alcohol as compared to Amarone’s 15-16 percent.

Of course all these wines have a range of producers, so the key to finding a wine that matches your wants, needs and budgetary limitations, is talking with one of the great wine experts at Hinsdale Cellars. Happy Father’s Day!

– Ivy F. Kupec

 

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