Old vs. New: February red cuvées offer taste of both

It’s really an age-old debate. Tradition versus new-fangled modernity. Wisdom versus edgy smarts. Subtle charm versus unrestrained boldness. And, in this case, we’re talking about wine, not some family-owned business that falls into the hands of the youthful upstart. Wine critics will rave about “Old World” balance of one wine, and then turn around to compliment another wine’s immediately drinkable  “New World” rambunctious-ness. They generalize that wines from France, Italy and other European environs possess “Old World” characteristics of subtlety and elegance and New World wines (from everywhere else) come with lusciousness, lower acidity and higher alcohol levels. Who’s to say if these generalizations hold true or which style is even better?  You are!  This month, members of Hinsdale’s Inspired Wine Club are offered a treat of two red wine blends that should showcase the two styles: the Syrah-dominating French blend versus the California Central Coast red blend with only 2% Syrah. Surprisingly, they make for fair competitors and perhaps turn those generalizations upside down, but if you’re like those of us here in Hinsdale Cellars, you’ll find them both to be winners.

Pi’nouf 2009 Languedoc Red, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

Pronounced “peee –nooof,” here is an excellent representative of wines from a part of France considered to be the world’s single biggest wine region, making more wine than the entire United States and “on some of the world’s oldest soils.” Though “Old World” wines are prized for their delicate nature, this Languedoc-Roussillon specimen may throw you off a bit. Even its name translates as “bold, rich, persistent,” and its rich, fleshy Syrah plays heavily in that brashness. With 65% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 10% Carignan, Pi’nouf presents as regal cherry red with purple sheen. It is deeply fruity with a lushness that evokes bittersweet chocolate-covered cherries with smoky vanilla notes. As the winemaker notes, “the palate is medium-to-full-bodied with a long, lingering finish and enough supple tannins to give some classic ‘grip.’” Watch this wine pair perfectly with your heartiest fare or alongside a potent collection of after-dinner cheeses.

Bonny Doon Vineyard 2009 “Contra,” Central Coast, California

Ironically described as a red Rhone blend, this mix of 55% Carignan, 15% Grenache, 14% Mourvedre, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Zinfandel, and 2% Syrah is grown and produced nowhere near the Rhone River. Though considered a “New World” wine, it comes mostly from “old-fangled” grape varieties and from mostly older vineyards, even if they are in Contra Costa County. It is gorgeously rustic with a nose of cherry, licorice, cassis and blackberry. On the palate, it holds a bright acidity with silky tannins. The winemaker describes “Contra” as having important contrasts of “luscious, opulent fruitiness” with a certain degree of austerity, concluding it’s got the “yin and yang of soft and hard, of fruit and earth….” The Wine Advocate described it as “stunning.” The San Francisco Chronicle included it among its top 100 wines for 2010. We think it marries as well with a hearty Provencal stew as it does with a medium-rare grilled Black Angus ribeye.

 

You call it Grenache; I call it Garnacha…

The French may have popularized el Tinto Aragonés a.k.a Grenache as the core blending wine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas or Côtes du Rhône. But when this delightful, less tannic varietal goes back to its roots in Spain, where it actually originates near Rioja, we see gorgeous reds and rosé that show it has truly come home. One sip, and it’s clear, the Spanish climate and terroir (or should I say suelo?) is just what the oenophile ordered. Today’s Spanish Garnacha brings forth complexity and depth. Noted for its body and ability to make other wines taste even better, sometimes Garnacha is equally brilliant on its own. This month, Hinsdale Cellars gives Inspired Wine Club members a chance to taste and compare two Spanish Garnacha wines – one that showcases the grape solamente, and the other incorporating a bit of Tempranillo to give the wine even more heft.

Fagus de Coto de Hayas, Garnacha 2008

An intense garnet wine, the nose here also conveys an intensity of red fruit, spice and oakiness. On the palate, this luscious somewhat oaky red brings forth vanilla and raspberry jamminess with hints of licorice and chocolate that are made even more impressive with a bit of decanting. This Garnacha is balanced, rich and most definitely satisfying. The Penin Guide on Spanish Wine scored this particular vintage 90 out of 100 points, saying “Never before has a Garnacha wine been so close to perfection.” In 2007, the wine won a silver medal in the International Wine Challenge in London. For a special treat, pair it with wild game, a succulent pork roast or as an accompaniment to ripe sheep cheese.

Don Ramon Campo de Borja, 2008

With an addition of 25% Tempranillo, one might worry that this full-bodied Garnacha would overwhelm the senses. However, this deep ruby-colored smile-maker provides a welcoming, albeit complex and intense aroma that leads to a luxurious full-fruited wine – perfect for quaffing on a cold winter’s night, enjoying with a hearty stew or serving with your homemade tapas of charcuterie and assorted cheeses. It is smooth, well structured and with a soft, rich finish. In other words, this Garnacha is delightfully drinkable and perfect for the red wine lover. You will quickly see why Garnacha is the third most planted grape in Spain.

 

Feliz Navidad: Spanish Wines just in time for Christmas

While it’s probably not Norman Rockwell’s idea of Christmas, Spain’s way of celebrating Feliz Navidad promises a month of excitement, flourish and color that even overflows into January. Whether it’s their spectacular month-long lottery, their day of pranks on el día de los Santos Inocentes, or their wait until Jan. 6 for three kings to bring their Christmas gifts rather than Santa Claus, each celebration is filled with special foods and hypnotic wine. No surprise then that this year, your friends at Hinsdale Cellars would bring a little of that Latino festivity home, providing Inspired Wine Club members with two very elegant Spanish wines – one red and one white, of course – that are perfect accompaniments to decking the halls and two more great reasons to say, “Joy to the World.”

Finca Os Cobatos 2010 Mencia

Say “ola” to Mencia, a new varietal to many American wine drinkers, but definitely one you are likely to want to taste again and again. Sourced from vines planted in the early 1980s, this wine comes from northwestern Spain in an area sometimes referred to as “Green Spain” because of its lush environment and cooler mountainside temps. Look forward to a lush, complex wine that will surprise and delight the most critical red wine oenophiles. Compared to Beaujolais or Cabernet Franc, this Mencia is ruby red in color with a nose of ripe red fruits and a certain earthy herbaceousness that is ever-so-slightly floral. It’s balanced with good texture that is enhanced by double-decanting or just letting the wine breath for about a half-hour. This 100% Mencia wine has bright acidity with a youthful light to medium body and tannins that actually can pair well with fish, not just your Christmas roast beast or roasted game hens.

Pazo do Mar 2010 Ribeiro (Albariño)

Nothing says special occasion like an elegant white wine from one of Spain’s award winning vintners, and this 100% Albariño is just the thing for your holiday table. Another lesser-known varietal is showcased in this refreshing, yet luxurious straw-colored wine. Often compared to Viognier, this wine has a nose of elegant minerality mixed with citrus and tart Granny Smith apple. Good, yet delicate acids make for a medium- to full-bodied white with grip and long finish. Great for drinking alone, this wine is also a wonderful match for your Oysters Rockefeller, salmon bisque or roasted whole snapper.

Merry Christmas to all our Hinsdale friends!

 

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