And sure enough, as we made our way to the unassuming vineyard known as Fattoria La Magia, we were soon to learn just how great that wine could be. Winemaker and owner Fabian Schwarz greeted us and casually took us to a hillside overlooking his grapes with a breathtaking view that also included a distant Benedictine St. Antimo abbey that Charlemagne built so many centuries ago. While it is far from being the biggest vineyard in the world (approximately 52 hectares of which you can see all of it from this one vantage point), here is a winery that has flourished, exporting its wine around the world.

“Do you ever get sick of this view,” I said while transfixed by the gentle vineyards with the abbey beyond and a backdrop of the majestic Apennine Mountains.

Fabian chuckled and said, “No, but sometimes they look even better after I have been away traveling.”

The Brunello everybody loves

Most wine experts will say that Brunello is Tuscany’s greatest wine varietal; others say it is the best in all of Italy. Roughly translated as “nice dark one,” this is a red wine lover’s dream with its smooth tannins and robust dark fruit and leather flavors. Brunello di Montalcino was awarded with the first DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in 1980, which means it can only be grown and produced in Montalcino, that everything used to make the wine must also come from Montalcino and that it can only be made from 100 percent Brunello grapes, which are a perfected clone of the Sangiovese grape that dates back to the mid-19^th century. Fabian explained that Brunello must age at least two years in oak barrels and a minimum of four years overall as part of the DOCG rules. Riserva Brunello ages at least two and a half years in oak barrels and five years overall.

Like many of the local winemakers, Fabian and his wife offer tastings and tours by appointment, and depending on what you taste and whether you would like some charcuterie alongside your wines, the price ranges between 10 and 18 Euro ($14-25 US).  The tour starts in the vineyard, goes through the cellars and finishes outside under a shady tree, where the family dog is quick to nestle herself comfortably under the tables as well.

It’s this kind of environment that allows one to learn about the challenges a winemaker has and see the parts of winemaking that drive his passion. My friend’s simple question about Fabian’s wine label revealed that when he was just four years old, an artist had come to visit his father to design that year’s label for the Riserva wine. However, on that occasion the four-year-old created art that proved to be longer-lived, still adorning all of La Magia’s wine bottles rather than just one vintage like the work from the more experienced artist.

A satisfying tasting

So, La Magia, like most of the wineries in Montalcino has found the benefits of location and have clearly specialized in Brunello. Like most winemakers in this area, Fabian specializes with the three wines of Montalcino: Rosso, Brunello and Brunello Riserva. While winemakers save their best quality grapes for Riserva and lesser quality grapes for Rosso, a lot of the rules can change depending on a good or bad vintage. Many reviewers will note that in bad vintage years, these wines can prove to be exceptional values. As winemakers downgrade their best grapes, the Rosso’s quality improves. Asking Fabian about which years were good years for Rosso and good years for Riserva proved mind numbing. Compounding the confusing list of vintages was the fact that as we tasted his three wines, they all had impressive aroma, taste and color, despite ranging in price from 12 to 45 Euros/bottle.

Bad quality Rosso?  Not from this place was the conclusion we drew. Yes, the Rosso lacked some of that depth and tannins in which the Brunello and Riserva bathed your tongue, but it definitely held its own as a hearty, earthy, robust red wine. We bought two bottles of each wine for the rest of our Tuscan vacation. However, we couldn’t resist opening them in threesomes to continue comparing and contrasting.

My husband likes to say that the best wines are always best because of context – you’re having a good time, surrounded by friends or family, or the setting is just perfect. Well, for six traveling friends in Tuscany, we decided La Magia has some damn fine context.

– Ivy F. Kupec

Whether it’s the brilliant gold of a Chardonnay, the coppery shimmer of a Provencal rosé, the regal crimson of an earthy Syrah or the bubbly and inherent joy of any sparkling wine, a good glass of wine is one of the most sensual experiences, awakening an appreciation for God and mankind’s good works. So, as we approach the Christmas season, what better way to note that relationship than by highlighting three wines that have a very obvious churchy connection.  When you learn the names all together, it may conjure the start of some sort of familiar joke…“a priest and three saints meet God at a bar…”but instead you will find that experiencing these oenophilic dreams are just three more reasons to say, “Thank God for wine.”

The Priest: Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, California

Made from the oldest and boldest parts Oriental and Nightingale vineyards, this wine feels very pure of heart. Winemakers age the wine for 24 months in new and neutral French oak barrels to lend a wonderful earthiness to the wine and make its pairing with your favorite roast beast a perfect marriage. Named for the original Priest family landowners who settled on this land in 1849, this hillside Cab has gorgeous aromatics of black cherry, raspberry, vanilla and cedar that are rustic and classic. A glorious quaff for your holiday table. $39.99/bottle.

The 3 Saints: Three Saints Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley, California

Here is a Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 18 percent Cabernet Franc and 2 percent Merlot to produce an unbridled, full-bodied, fruit-forward wine.  Silky tannins, dark berries, vanilla and an earthy spiciness are a treat to the palate.  This wine has a long, smooth finish that marries well with wild game or even those meals more piquant in nature.  In its humble way, Three Saints provides a wine that is balanced and murmuring elegance, class and sophistication. $24.99/bottle.

The Creator: K Vintners (Charles Smith) The Creator, Walla Walla, Washington State

Big, like the ultimate “Creator” himself, this wine is about two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Syrah, producing an inky purple sensory monster.  Wine Spectator, which rated it a 91, describes it as “dark and chewy…dense with blackberry, currant and tar flavors, glowing and pulsing against a layer of smoky tannins. Shows a lot of life.” It’s hard not to discuss this wine without mentioning its label and name.  The outrageous Charles Smith deigns to transform his caricature into a god-like figure, suggesting that this wine is perhaps the wine of all wines.  Ironically, judging from the buzz it has created, this wine now has many devoted disciples.  Enjoy with your favorite red meat of the season. $62.99/bottle.

It’s hard to be a Merlot these days

For years, many wine connoisseurs dismissed Merlots from California as bland and characterless–so much so that it was probably the most memorable line from the movie Sideways: “…if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving.”

Everyone likes being part of a secret. And maybe that’s why the dinner that we held about a week ago at Topaz featuring an assortment of Jim and Mary Dierberg’s wines was such a hit. Sure, our event was publicized, and the restaurant is known to be one of the best in our area, but the wines—these were well-reviewed wines that have surprisingly not gotten a lot of press. So, it was a real treat to not only taste the wines, but to do so with the winery owners and their winemaker, Nick de Luca.

In a country known for its tempestuous tango and its opulent Malbec, is it really any surprise that by the end of our Mendoza wine tour, the visits and outings grew increasingly extravagant and , dare I say, sensuous?

Day Three (February 10, 2009) and Day Four (February 11, 2009)

No one will ever accuse winemakers of being boring or homogenous.

Day One (February 8, 2009) & Day Two (February 9, 2009)

If there was such a thing as a time machine in winemaking, so many of us Napa lovers would travel back about 30 years and visit Napa Valley before the enormous tour groups took hold and wine tourism became big business for that region.

Short of a time machine, what one can do –

Perhaps circling the globe to consult with other winemakers causes one to return home with an appreciation for not only good wine, but also preserving the resources that help create it.

That seems to be the case for Susana Balbo, who is respected worldwide for her skill and experience in winemaking. After 20 years of advising others and helping them to produce great wines in Australia, California, Chile, France, Italy, South Africa and Spain, she found her way back to Argentina and started Dominio del Plata, a vineyard known for its sustainable agriculture as much as its fabulous wines. Reportedly, she still spends a month each year in a different wine region of the world, everlearning from other winemakers and growers.

According to the winery’s Web site, “the entire project is specially designed and implemented in a way that doesn’t harm the natural resources, preserves the environment, functions according to social requirements, and at the same time maintains productivity to remain economically competitive.” And, though, many of the grapes for the wines come from other vineyards, those growers too, must agree to Balbo’s rigorous standards.

Hinsdale Cellars’ own Sean Chaudhry spent a day touring her vineyards and winery recently during his ongoing Argentina wine expedition that you will soon read about in Vintelligence.

A winery known for passion and precision

A family enterprise, Balbo and her husband Pedro Marchevsky had a shared vision of paying close attention to the small things that make the difference between good wine and great wine. Many describe her wines as a bridge in style between California and Bordeaux with fruit “opulence” that doesn’t overpower.

Wine critics reiterate the evident passion Balbo and her family have put into producing quality wine: the careful selection of Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, an area noted for its warm summer days and cool nights; the well-draining, sandy soil that, despite strong hail storms, make this a nearly perfect home for grapevines’ the high-trellising system for stability that is credited for sustaining the grapes during a long growing season so they can have great color and aroma; and the constant maintenance Balbo and company give their vines. It all adds up to making truly noteworthy wines.

In addition to Balbo’s super premium or signature labels of Susana Balbo, Ben Marco, and Nosotros, she has become popularly known for her more moderately priced “Crios” line. Crios means offspring in Spanish, and she has said that she chose this name because these wines weren’t quite as grown up as her others – more brashly fruit forward and to be enjoyed younger than her signature wines.

A winning combination

Perhaps, one of her most interesting wines in the Crios collection blends Syrah and Bonarda grapes. Critics and wine connoisseurs alike proclaim it drinks like a significantly more expensive wine than she has priced it, so take note. The Bonarda grape, which originated in Italy, is rarely found there these days, but it’s quite common in Argentina, and the blend with Syrah has produced a dark reddish/purple wine with an intense aroma of black raspberries.

According to Robert Parker Jr.’s The Wine Advocate, the 2006 Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah-Bonarda “delivers an alluring nose of baking spice, blueberry plum, and black raspberry. On the palate, it is medium bodied with loads of spicy dark fruit a forward personality, good balance, and a pure finish….” His rating of 90 points for this wine follows Wine Spectator’s 89 points and the quippy comment: “Very tasty. Drink now.” Clearly advice to heed…and soon!

– Ivy F. Kupec

Ben gathered with a group of local wine connoisseurs at the acclaimed Hinsdale Wine Shop in the city’s western suburbs (he’s posing here with oenophile Doug Myers, center, and the wine shop’s esteemed founder Sean Chaudhry) and unveiled a spectrum of exceptional types of red wine, foremost among them the 2006 Amon-Ra Shiraz. Ben does not attempt to conceal his lofty expectations for the ’06, even though it comes on the heels of an ’04 and ’05 also both highly regarded. He expects to go three-for-three. The ’06 growing season was slighty warmer than the previous two, which leads the congenial Aussie to believe the current Amon-Ra will continue to add finesse, elegance and structure as it matures in the bottle.

The nose of the ’06 exhibits a full measure of dark cherry and toasty hints. On the palate there is a quickly noted complexity and a juicy intensity.

The 2004 Amon-Ra rated 95 points when reviewed by Stephen Tanzer, and the 2005 was a monumental success, earning 98 points from Robert Parker Jr. The ’06 likely will join their critically acclaimed ranks.

The other news tidbit from the Glaetzer camp is that the Godolphin Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon blend has been renamed. Beginning with the 2006 vintage it will be labeled Anaperenna, although the wine is from the same vineyard and even the label image remains intact. The Glaetzers had to yield the Godolphin name due to threatened legal action by a party outside of the wine industry.