Tasting 2006 Glaetzer Amon-Ra Shiraz

Winemaker Ben Glaetzer blew into the Chicago area this week amid his annual tour of the States to promote forthcoming releases from the fabulous Barossa Valley in Australia.

Ben gathered with a group of local wine connoisseurs at the acclaimed Hinsdale Wine Shop in the city’s western suburbs (he’s posing here with oenophile Doug Myers, center, and the wine shop’s esteemed founder Sean Chaudhry) and unveiled a spectrum of exceptional types of red wine, foremost among them the 2006 Amon-Ra Shiraz. Ben does not attempt to conceal his lofty expectations for the ’06, even though it comes on the heels of an ’04 and ’05 also both highly regarded. He expects to go three-for-three. The ’06 growing season was slighty warmer than the previous two, which leads the congenial Aussie to believe the current Amon-Ra will continue to add finesse, elegance and structure as it matures in the bottle.

The nose of the ’06 exhibits a full measure of dark cherry and toasty hints. On the palate there is a quickly noted complexity and a juicy intensity.

The 2004 Amon-Ra rated 95 points when reviewed by Stephen Tanzer, and the 2005 was a monumental success, earning 98 points from Robert Parker Jr. The ’06 likely will join their critically acclaimed ranks.

The other news tidbit from the Glaetzer camp is that the Godolphin Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon blend has been renamed. Beginning with the 2006 vintage it will be labeled Anaperenna, although the wine is from the same vineyard and even the label image remains intact. The Glaetzers had to yield the Godolphin name due to threatened legal action by a party outside of the wine industry.

 

Coming Soon: Robert Craig’s 2004 Cabernets

We tasted Robert Craig’s forthcoming 2004 Cabernet Sauvignons this morning when he visited Hinsdale Wine Shop in Chicago’s western suburbs. Bob (left), as he congenially introduces himself, was here to talk about his limited releases – the Affinity Bordeaux-style blend and the Howell Moutain and Mount Veeder Cabernets.

The headline for Craig fans is that the ’04 Affinity (85% Cabernet Sauvignon), produced from yields in southern Napa Valley’s Tulocay appellation, is unfiltered for the first time in its history. The goal is to achieve “more depth” for the blend, which tended to show less power and structure than Bob’s “mountain wines”. Our Wednesday tasting suggests the new approach is doing the job.

More news: Next year there will be a fourth appellation represented under the Craig umbrella when he unveils his first vintage from the Spring Mountain AVA between Mt. Veeder and Howell Mountain.

Craig, who is nearing his 30th anniversary in the wine industry, is naturally partial to Mt. Veeder. He was one of the early investors and developers in the region, where he spent one 10-year period as general manager at Hess Collection winery. Bob also led a campaign that succeeded in bringing an AVA designation to Mt. Veeder in 1990.

His 1,400-case Mt. Veeder Cabernet, from a single, 26-acre vineyard, is again exhibiting its signature elegance, black fruit depth and supporting cedar notes. By contrast (and because of geographic variances), the 2004 Howell Mountain is more peppery, herbal and powerful.

“We are really pleased by how it has unfolded this year,” Bob said as we sampled the 900-case Howell Mountain Cab. “In the past, it always has taken a bit longer (after release) to open up.”

  

 

The Next O’Shaughnessy Cab

The charming vintner Betty O’Shaughnessy left her enviable perch on Howell Mountain to be in Chicago this week. She began by dining at the celebrated TRU, then the following day reconnected with sommeliers, restaurateurs and retailers during a private lunch in the gallery room at NoMI, an acclaimed dining destination inside Chicago’s posh Park Hyatt. The event’s host was leading Midwest distributor Troy Clements of Pure Wine Co.

With her new husband, Paul, at her side, Betty is on the road with new sales and marketing director Mike Steffel to herald the forthcoming release of the 2004 O’Shaughnessy Estate Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. There is much to herald.

Betty and winemaker Sean Capiaux have patiently awaited this release. They have been out of the consumer market for a year. The 2003 Howell Mountain Cab sold out quickly, followed by a decision to bottle-age the ’04 Cab six months more than earlier vintages (resulting in a total of 12 months in the bottle).

“It was a good decision,” she said during a memorable lunch created by NoMI executive chef Christophe David. “We are pleased we waited the extra six months.”

The ’04, with decanting, was highly drinkable when we sipped it with a delicious roasted lamb/spinach cannelloni dish (left) at NoMi on Tuesday. This is the fifth O’Shaughnessy vintage, but the first to contain all six Bordeaux blending varietals planted on her 36-acres of vineyards. The combination of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot (6%), Petit Verdot (4%), Malbec (3%), Carmenere (2%), Cabernet Franc and St. Macaire (1% each) results in a premium Napa red wine that has “more complexity” and tames the “harsh tannins of Howell Mountain (fruit),” Betty said.

Besides her marriage last September, which finds Betty living part-time near Los Angeles (where her husband’s law firm is based), the other big news delivered during her stop is that O’Shaughnessy Estate is one of only 12 California Cabernet producers invited to participate in a prestigious tasting this October.

The Oct. 19 blind tasting at Chateau Brane-Cantenac in the Bordeaux region is organized by the Vintners Club of San Francisco. A panel comprised of chateau owners, negociants, European aficionados and wine journalists from London and Paris will blind taste 12 California Cabs from the 2002 vintage. The other invitees are Caymus Vineyards, Flora Springs, Justin Vineyards, L’Aventure, The Nth Degree, Palmaz Vineyards, Ramey Wine Cellars, Ridge Vineyards, Robert Craig (also from Howell Mountain), Rocca Family Vineyards and ZD Wines.

As we savored a menu that also included a delicate heirloom tomato and buffalo mozzarella starter (right), later concluding with a dessert of artisan cheeses, Betty mentioned that O’Shaughnessy is releasing a 2004 Mt. Veeder Cabernet. Unfortunately, only 300 cases were produced and will be available only to the winery’s mailing list customers.

 

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