Coming Soon: Robert Craig’s 2004 Cabernets
We tasted Robert Craig’s forthcoming 2004 Cabernet Sauvignons this morning when he visited Hinsdale Wine Shop in Chicago’s western suburbs. Bob (left), as he congenially introduces himself, was here to talk about his limited releases – the Affinity Bordeaux-style blend and the Howell Moutain and Mount Veeder Cabernets.
The headline for Craig fans is that the ‘04 Affinity (85% Cabernet Sauvignon), produced from yields in southern Napa Valley’s Tulocay appellation, is unfiltered for the first time in its history. The goal is to achieve “more depth” for the blend, which tended to show less power and structure than Bob’s “mountain wines”. Our Wednesday tasting suggests the new approach is doing the job.
More news: Next year there will be a fourth appellation represented under the Craig umbrella when he unveils his first vintage from the Spring Mountain AVA between Mt. Veeder and Howell Mountain.
Craig, who is nearing his 30th anniversary in the wine industry, is naturally partial to Mt. Veeder. He was one of the early investors and developers in the region, where he spent one 10-year period as general manager at Hess Collection winery. Bob also led a campaign that succeeded in bringing an AVA designation to Mt. Veeder in 1990.
His 1,400-case Mt. Veeder Cabernet, from a single, 26-acre vineyard, is again exhibiting its signature elegance, black fruit depth and supporting cedar notes. By contrast (and because of geographic variances), the 2004 Howell Mountain is more peppery, herbal and powerful.
“We are really pleased by how it has unfolded this year,” Bob said as we sampled the 900-case Howell Mountain Cab. “In the past, it always has taken a bit longer (after release) to open up.”
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