It’s tough being an “A” student.

At least that’s what we always told our parents who pushed us for high marks. And for a winemaker, it’s even tougher to score high marks on her wines when she is, after all, trying to temper Mother Nature and harness the sun, rain and soil to produce breathtaking “nectar of the Gods.”

But that is exactly what Susana Balbo has done, producing wines that reviewers consistently score in the 90’s. Whether it is her signature Malbec, Brioso and Cabernet Sauvignon or her “offspring” Crios wines, like the Torrontes and Rosé, they rate 90+ points, and critics seem to gush about one of the most well-known and well-respected Argentine winemakers to date.

“Susana Balbo is to Argentine wine what Martha Stewart is to homemaking and Oprah Winfrey is to media in the United States,” wrote Vivianne Rodrigues on Reuters Life earlier this year.

In fact, Susana has come a long way from her enology degree that she earned in 1981. Much of her career was spent traveling around the world to help others create great wines in places like Chile, Australia, Spain, France, South Africa and California before she and her husband, Pedro Marchevsky decided in 1999 to create their own winery, Dominio del Plata, in Argentina. Today, Susana is president of the trade group Wines of Argentina, which represents more than 170 wineries.

Listening to nature

As a biodynamic winemaker, one of Susana’s guiding principles is sustainable agriculture. That means not only organic farming of a current harvest, but also taking a long-range approach to the land and local community to protect natural resources such that viticulture continues to thrive in this region. Additionally, Susana is known for her detail-oriented approach to winemaking. From planting to water management to blending decisions, she refuses to overlook any detail that can make a wine transcend from just good to really great. And it is likely her obvious passion for this profession that has taken her there.

Balbo-ific wine

It is no accident that Balbo and her husband chose Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, as their winery home. An area noted for its warm summer days and cool nights, Mendoza provides well-draining, sandy soil that is as close to perfect as it gets for making wine, despite some pretty fierce hail storms. Through a high-trellising system for grape vine stability and biodynamic farming, the grapes here benefit from a long growing season that leads to wines with Balbo’s characteristic great color, flavor and nose.

In addition to Balbo’s super premium or signature labels of Susana Balbo, Ben Marco, and Nosotros, she has become popularly known for her more moderately priced “Crios” line. Crios means offspring in Spanish, and she has said that she chose this name because these wines weren’t quite as grown up as her others – more brashly fruit forward and to be enjoyed younger than her signature wines. Regardless of the label, one thing is clear when experiencing Susana Balbo’s wines: hard work, knowledge, passion and an instinct for producing fabulous wine are undoubtedly a winning combination.

Interested in tasting some of Susana’s fine wines, then you are in luck; Susana Balbo is in Hinsdale! A reservation-only tasting is scheduled for Friday, August 27^th, 6-8:30 p.m. at the Hinsdale Wine Shop. The $20 entrance fee will be applied toward your purchases. To make reservations, call 630-654-9862.

At least that’s the way they think in Hungary, and many other places where people seem to adore Tokay wine. After spending a few days in Budapest this week, I finally got a chance to see what all the fuss is about.

Legend has it that in the mid-1600s, a Hungarian priest named Laczko began dabbling with Furmint grapes to make a new, great wine in Hungary. Just as his grapes were nearing harvest, Turks invaded and all good Hungarians had to go to war, leaving his experimental fruit to rot on the vine. He and his harvesters returned in late Fall to dried up, withering grapes that were not only rotting but laden with Butrytis cinerea fungus. He decided to cut his losses, pick them anyway, mixi them with a previous year’s wine and hope for the best. The result was Tokay Aszu, which is revered as much if not more than French Sauterne…and just as sweet too. Many wine experts love to refer to Louis XIV’s description of Tokay as the “wine of kings” and the King of wines.”

Despite being a dry wine love, I was utterly intrigued by the the way wine critics literally rave about this ultra sweet varietal. Measured in “Puttonyos,” ranging usually from three to six, one gets a general idea of the level of sweetness in a Tokay. Three is merely considered “sweet,” whereas six is “dramatically sweet,” and Tokay Eszencia is described as “off the charts,” according to Karen MacNeil in her Wine Bible. If you believe our wine guy at the Budapest City Market, those Puttonyos directly relate to the quality of wine and certainly the price.

For those who have not traveled to Budapest, its city market is quite a treat. Spacious, clean and full of paprikas and paprika-related items alongside stalls and stalls of colorful produce and aromatic salamis, meats and cheeses, this indoor market is open every day of the week. On its top floor are stalls after stalls of local crafts but also yet more stalls, cafes and restaurants to taste Langos (deep-fried savory Elephant Ears smothered with sour cream and paprika) as well as goulash soup and other Hungarian goodies. It’s also the perfect place to try Hungarian wines, especially Tokay.

Fear not if your Hungarian is limited to “goulash, please,” because most Hungarians speak English. For me, asking for a range of Tokay samplings proved easy enough. Many stands have several bottles lined up of Tokay with deciliters to taste for the equivalent of $2-6. Our wine guy was likely not the most helpful in the market, but it didn’t really matter as it was satisfying just getting to see a range of the wine all in one place. Ultimately I felt a little like Goldilocks with three diverse Tokay. My Szaraz or dry Tokay sample was the cheapest of the bunch, but lacked the more complex layering and flavors of the sweeter wines. This one is a little too dry. A 6-Puttonyo had the characteristic honey nose and honey flavor but felt almost as if I was literally drinking honey. This one is a little too sweet. And a mid-range 4-Puttonyo wine turned out to be still quite sweet but easy to imagine with a tender foie gras (the Hungarians love their foie gras) or as a dessert wine. This one was just right.

Today’s Tokay has had a storied past such that only since the ’90s has it returned to the glory that it enjoyed when it was first discovered. Phylloxera, politics and poor economics prevented a strong wine industry from flourishing during tumultuous times. Literally, it took Hugh Johnson and several deep-pocketed non-Hungarian investors to restore Hungary’s Tokay grapes vines (now four varieties, not just Furmint).

And of course, other wine varietals only found in this region are also resurging. According to MacNeil, Hungary ranks 11th in wine-producing countries worldwide, but you’d never know it to look at most wine selections in stores since much of it never leaves the country. Even in Germany, where I live, there are few Hungarian wines for sale. But, that is likely changing. As more people travel and wine sellers learn of Kekfrankos (the grape used to make Bull’s Blood), Kekoporto, Zweigelt, Olasrizling, Oremus, and Harslevelu, they have an opportunity to expand horizons and encounter Hungary at a a good time when the wine is only getting better.

– Ivy F. Kupec

A German octopus with impressive psychic abilities (at least when it comes to anticipating winners and losers in World Cup 2010) has predicted Spain will be victorious at Sunday’s final match against the Netherlands. This is the first time the team has ever qualified for the finals.  And it’s clear why they have done so — the youthful team plays with an obvious passion that is beautiful to watch. For oenophiles, Spanish wines too are attracting more attention and fans this year as wine producers possess devotion, passion and skill, much like the popularized España strikers David Villa, Carles Puyol or Xavi.

Lucky for me, I recently visited Spain and got to experience some of its great wine stars first hand, such as Perfum De Vi Blanc from producer Raventos i Blanc and winemaker Pepe Raventos.  As we approached the vineyard, a striking circular courtyard surrounded a majestic 500-year-old oak tree, unfortunately toppled by a recent storm.  Considered a winery icon, this tree has witnessed the changes and growth in the Raventos operation since 1497—18 generations of winemakers who have worked the 90 hectares of historic vineyard that lie about 30 minutes west of Barcelona in the Catalunya region.  The clean, contemporary architecture with its mix of large skylights and modern arches hints at the family’s keen interest in tapping modern technology to protect the land through biodynamic viticulture to produce truly remarkable wines.  The Raventos are probably best known for their sparkling cavas, but it was this 50/50 blend of Muscat and Macabeo grapes that “wow-ed” me during our tastings.

Macabeo, also known as Viura, is a hearty grape that is often blended into cavas and has become popular in France’s Roussillon area. The grape produces mildly acidic and young white wines that are light, lively, refreshing and perfect for early use as evidenced in this 2009 Perfum.  The grape, however, that puts the “perfume” in the Perfum is clearly the Muscat, which is known for its distinctive floral aroma. (Interesting fact: Muscat grapes have been found to carry large concentrations of flavonoid antioxidants, even at the same level as red wines, which is good for the heart when drunk in moderation, of course.)

The final result of these two grapes is a blend that, as I have said before, is like no other. Initially, it has a hypnotic floral nose, followed by the fresh and lively florality in taste.  There are hints of melon, pear and citrus that make it a perfect match to a hot summer day.  It has a good balance between the mouth-filling character of the Muscat and the freshness of Macabeo. I challenge you to stop at one glass.  I think it’s impossible.

So with a forecast here in Hinsdale of nearly 90-degree weather Sunday for the World Cup finals, it seems like the perfect time to make sure you have some Perfum chilling in preparation.  Whether the octopus is right or wrong, whether he’s a fan of Spanish wines or not, whether you are indifferent to soccer games or octopus, this is a wine that is just perfect for any hot summer day.

winemaking. However, that is exactly the case at Matetic Vineyards, which is often singled out as one of Chile’s best winemakers, especially when it comes to its Pinot Noir.  Soft, loping alpacas weed the grounds there, and grape skins, cow manure and grass make for the compost that is later used to nurture vines.  This is a far cry from the 1600s when the Spanish brought Chile its first grape vines while staking claim to this wonderful country.  Later, they would try to limit Chile’s wine production, but to no avail.

Considered a New World star, Matetic in particular continues to garner attention and acclaim for its breathtaking wines.  Located in San Antonio Valley, the Croatian Matetic family only started making wine here in 1999, but have a history farming the Chilean land that dates back 100 years.  They are clearly in touch with the land that makes their fine wines, and lucky Hinsdale Inspired Wine Club members get a virtual trip there in June with two of the winemaker’s extraordinary top-line EQ wines – two varietals definitely not traditionally associated with Chile.

EQ Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Twenty years ago, Chile was known only for its reds, but in the unique climate of San Antonio Valley, Sauvignon Blanc has found a very comfortable home.  Cool temps and reddish clay soil that contains decomposed granite and quartz lend a unique minerality to this Sauvignon Blanc.  The nose of delicate tropical fruits and distinct lemon blossoms are a wonderful entry to this light-colored wine. To the palate, it provides a complex experience of minerality and a gentle balance of acidity and soft sweetness of fruity flavors.  Winemaker serving suggestions: oily fishes, ceviche, sea urchins, oysters or sheep cheeses.

EQ Pinot Noir 2006

Matetic Pinot Noir is considered to be among the very best pinot noirs coming out of Chile.  Wine critics, despite generally thinking of Chile as cabernet country, have questioned whether Pinot Noir and Syrah might be its true destiny, recognizing San Antonio Valley as seemingly perfect terroir for this grape and Matetic as a leader.  The 2006 presents as an elegant deep ruby red, calling forth gentle aromas of strawberry jam, plum and even a hint of anise.  The texture is soft and elegant, the acidity well-balanced, and the finish long and beautiful. Winemaker serving suggestions: fish, goat cheese, cured ham, lean red meat, pasta.

Throughout the Iceland’s “erupting” news, I couldn’t help but recall a geologist friend’s comments about volcanoes and wines after he returned from Cape Verde. He had traveled to a remote island with an impressive volcanic landscape, including Cha das Caldeiras, a volcanic plane. “From the (only) town on the island it takes you many hours to drive to Cha das Caldeiras,” said Professor Falk Amelung from the University of Miami in a recent e-mail. “There was nothing there other than lava and…vineyards. At least that’s the way I remember it!”

What’s in a soil?
Many of our favorite wine regions – Napa Valley, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, New Zealand – benefit from volcanic soils that include mineral-rich ingredients like basalt, pumice, perlite, jory and tufa. From glassy basalt that is rich in calcium, iron and magnesium to light, powdery perlite, these volcanic soil components vary in quantity and mineral composition.

“Minerals that come out of volcanoes are, by definition, stable at high temperatures,” said Professor Tim Dixon, University of Miami marine geologist and oenophile. “Upon eruption, they are rapidly chilled to glass, so the minerals are in a metastable state. Hence, they can rapidly break down – quick in a geologic sense, which means tens to hundreds of years. Ultimately, this process releases potash and phosphate, two critical nutrients normally in short supply.” In other words, volcanic soil makes for good soil chemistry.

Geologist colleague, also at the University of Miami, Shimon Wdowinski adds that these soils’ iron and magnesium could also be important. Volcanologists from University of California-Santa Barbara credit mineral-rich volcanic soils, too, noting that many people will risk heavy ash, lava flows and unbelievable damage to grow crops and raise livestock in these potentially dangerous areas because they are so bountiful. For example, except for the volcanic area near Naples, farming in southern Italy is difficult because of the prevalent limestone. Naples, however, has Mt. Vesuvius, and its two eruptions 35,000 and 12,000 years ago left mineral-rich soil that still is considered Italy’s best agricultural land.

According to Jeff Cox in The Wine News, the older, but not necessarily most dominant theory on volcanic soil’s benefits to wine, however, has to do with drainage. “For many years, the conventional wisdom, perpetuated by UC-Davis teachings, was that a soil’s drainage capacity, rather than some ineffable nutrient, had the biggest influence on the resulting quality of a wine.”

Professor Dixon also noted that volcanic soils provide important drainage. “Grape vines hate ” wet feet,” and volcanic terrains are usually sloped, hence drainage is good.” Winemakers will quickly tout the benefits of struggling vines that have to dig deep for their water and mineral sources, establishing stronger root systems in the process that make for heartier plants and fruit that is less fleshy and more concentrated in flavor.

The Santa Barbara volcanologists note yet another reason for volcanic soil’s benefits: its reaction to the sun: heat from the sun releases key elements from the rocks, making them accessible to the plants within. “Volcanic rocks make some of the best soils on earth because they… have a wide variety of common elements and are readily chemically separated into elemental components.”

Terroir, terroir, terroir
Though terroir sounds a lot like terrain, the French say it is much more than the ground and soil—it’s about the interconnectedness of all elements that ultimately produce great wines. It’s fascinating to see areas like the Mosel River Valley and Pfalz regions of Germany, that don’t seem to have any active volcanoes these days but still benefit from volcanic soil that remains to produce vibrant Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

Likewise, according to Cox, Napa Valley has an age-old connection. “Beginning about four or five million years ago, Napa Valley was a region of active volcanism. This ancient volcanic rock comes to the surface today on the lower slopes on either side of the valley.”

According to the Santa Barbara volcanologists, “after the Mt. St. Helens eruption in 1980, people who were living downwind from the eruption were concerned that the ash that fell would be detrimental to the agricultural farmlands of eastern Washington. This concern was countered by a group of knowledgeable earth scientists. Volcanic ash can be considered as a time-release capsule, rich in nutrients.”

While geologists know generally how volcanic ash or soil help better winemaking, it is hardly the only factor. So many variables play into producing great wine that winemakers seem to be able to rely on skill, experience and science only so much. Sometimes, they also need a little luck or magic.

So to help celebrate the segue of spring into summer and wonderful American traditions, the Inspired Wine Club brings two all-American California wines – a beautiful red for those steaks or other hearty fare you will inevitably bring to your grill and a summery white that pairs well with fish fresh from the market or shrimp on the “Barby.”

2007 Sean Minor Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa

A deep ruby wine, this Cab is tempered with 13% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.  The result is an alluring berry mix.  The nose says ripe cherry, cassis, and blackberries.  The flavors continue the berry rush combined with savory spices.  Some will note cedar in it as well.  Thanks to the blending, this fruit-forward, medium-bodied wine has soft tannins and a sweet oak balance that provides a long, lingering finish.

2008 Dry Creek Fume Blanc, Sonoma

This wine is a perfect match for the beginning of summery days with its wonderful fresh-cut grass aromas mixed with herbs, asparagus, gooseberries and even green chiles.  A citrusy treat, this pale gold wine is refreshingly crisp and well balanced with lemon zest, cucumber and mineral flavors. It has a dry, crisp finish, making for a delicate wine that can be enjoyed with the lighter foods that we enjoy so much in warmer weather.

According to the Aussie survey of 1,000 people, only 7 percent could recall the date of Mother’s Day, which happens to be the same at the U.S. celebration (May 9), and apparently, we don’t put on our thoughtful caps when selecting presents for our underappreciated mothers. Most unwanted gift item? Cleaning appliances (aka vacuums), fitness equipment, foot spas, kitchen gadgets, and items purchased obviously at the last-minute.

Mother’s Day Help to the Rescue!

Do I even need to mention this to you again?  Be inspired.  Buy your mother membership to the Hinsdale Inspired Wine Club!  It’s the perfect Mother’s Day gift and it keeps on giving, month after month.  Your mother may like it so much you can do it again next year!

Sure, your mom would like to tour Napa Valley or sit on a sunny terrace in Provence, sipping some refreshing rosé.  Maybe she’d love to enjoy a rich Malbec in the dusty vineyards, watching the sunset in Mendoza.  Those things aren’t necessarily the easiest to give, especially when we have forgotten when Mother’s Day is and/or have waited until the last minute to buy our beloved parent a gift.  (We should know better, but so many things get in the way, right?)

So, here’s a way to capture those travels and wines in one convenient gift – membership in the largest wine club in the Chicago area, boasting more than 400 members. That means more buying power to find better wines and get better values. For $34.95/month (no long-term contract required), members receive:

* Two fine wines each month, valued on average at $50 and selected through a rigorous tasting process

* Informative literature on Wine Club wines, including tasting notes and reviews

* Special discounts on the month’s wine, if you decide to buy more.

* Special alerts on wine specials and store events, and

* 6- and 12-month memberships are available, as well, at $209.70 and $419.40, respectively.

Australians may not know everything, but of the two thirds of “mums” who actually received a Mother’s Day gift last year, 47 percent “weren’t happy with it, with 15 percent saying it was bought at the last minute, the survey indicated.”  Tsk, tsk.  With all that good wine down under, you’d think they’d have a wine club like Hinsdale’s to prevent such a disaster. Hinsdale Cellars, with its Inspired Wine Club, offers helpful, unique expertise and is most likely to introduce you and your favorite Mom to your next favorite wines.

For more information, come visit the store at 12 E. Hinsdale Ave., the Web site at http://www.hinsdalecellars.com or call 630.654.9862.

Wine, not Whines, for Mom

Perhaps talking about Mothers’ Day approximately a month ahead of time would seem a bit premature to some people.  However, as a mother, I have learned that my family doesn’t seem to hear me the first time I say anything unless it’s “hot chocolate chip cookies just came out of the oven…” Even then, I can quickly lose out to a heated Wii game or a captivating episode of The Simpsons.

That said, Mother’s Day is just around the corner on May 9th, and this is one mother who is willing to stand up and speak for the masses: You know what moms like?  We like wine.   Big surprise on a wine blog, right?  Well, but then you must know that the women in your life who also get to be mothers are likely nodding in agreement right about now.

In fact, they are not only nodding in agreement but buying wine as they do so.  According to the Washington Post, women make 57 percent of U.S. wine purchases.  Even more staggering and written in scholarly-speak, scientists from the International Journal of Wine Business Research estimate 80 percent of the wine sold in the United States is to women.  And they know a lot about us, too.  They conclude that women are more apt than men to seek information from wine store employees, a server, sommelier or winery personnel than men.  We actually read those labels and shelf tags that wine guys provide for us, and we tend to love to buy wines with medals and awards. I hate generalizations about any group of people because it can often lead to prejudice, but in this case, I must say I can corroborate those findings.

Mom-Worthy Wine

So, where do you find wine worth your favorite Mom’s time?  She’s obviously dear enough to you that you have suffered through this blog and are now pondering whether a month could possibly be enough time to get her the gift she deserves. The key here is to think about how wines take people on journeys.  A sip of a sensuous Malbec provides immediate transport to vibrant Argentina.  The right kind of Grenache-rich rosé can recall her backpacking experiences in Europe after college that led her to Aix-en-Provence. And a dry Riesling from Australia reminds her of the Outback trip she’d like to take for her next milestone birthday.  There’s a way to capture those travels and wines in one convenient gift, and that’s the Hinsdale Cellars Inspired Wine Club – the largest wine club in the Chicago area, boasting more than 400 members. That means more buying power to find better wines and get better values.