Gems Aplenty with Dierberg Wines at Topaz

Everyone likes being part of a secret. And maybe that’s why the dinner that we held about a week ago at Topaz featuring an assortment of Jim and Mary Dierberg’s wines was such a hit. Sure, our event was publicized, and the restaurant is known to be one of the best in our area, but the wines—these were well-reviewed wines that have surprisingly not gotten a lot of press. So, it was a real treat to not only taste the wines, but to do so with the winery owners and their winemaker, Nick de Luca.

It’s hard to believe that nearly 300 acres of vineyard and some great tasting wine doesn’t get more press, but after our dinner, I can say, it must be forthcoming. Certainly, the approximately 50 people who attended our dinner event would eagerly agree that this dinner showed off some phenomenal wines, especially the reds, which matched well with Topaz’ specially prepared menu. Hats off to Executive Chef Giuseppe Scurato from Topaz, who outdid himself in creating the perfect menu to showcase Dierberg wines.

I’ve come to love the stories of the people involved in wine, and the Dierberg story is no different. When I think of winemakers, I certainly don’t think of bankers, but that’s what the Dierbergs did for a living. True, they started getting involved in winemaking in 1974 in their Missouri home, but even that is such an unusual beginning. These days, I know them for the magical wines they produce at their Dierberg Estate, Star Lane and Three Saints Vineyards all in Santa Barbara county. I use the word magical because three years ago, I got to visit them and between the view, the wine and the overall experience, I was enchanted.

Microclimatic wine

The nice thing about the Dierberg’s vineyards is the various microclimates within them all. Between the maritime climate, the sandy loamy soil, and the winds and rains of this coastal region, they can see interesting variation that adds to the complexity and depth of their wines. The Dierberg’s 160-acre vineyard outside the town of Santa Maria, and just 14 miles from the Pacific Ocean, is planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Farther south, and almost at the very edge of the ocean, the Santa Rita Hills offer a chillier and much windier environment than Santa Maria. Star Lane is located in the warmer, most eastern corner of the Santa Ynez Valley. And the Three Saints wines, also, come from vineyards located in three Santa Barbara county premium wine growing regions: Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley, and Santa Rita Hills.

One of the reasons my visit three years ago was so memorable is that it was when they were still building the Star Lane caves. We were taken to a barrel room to do a tasting of Cabernet that was almost done, right from the barrel. I’m used to drinking lush Cabernets with that rich depth that warms and fills your mouth with its wonderful complex flavors. I don’t think anyone would describe red wine as a thirst quencher. But on this occasion, at 11 in the morning, I tasted something entirely different that was juicy and refreshing, so nice and cool, that I wanted to drink more and more of it. But that’s the interesting thing about wines as they are just developing. And having the dinner tasting with these same wines was gratifying as I contrasted them now in their matured states.

Menu magic

So, for those of you who missed this incredible feast, I will do some quick highlights: The 2006 Star Lane Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc, with its peach/apricot undertones and overall creaminess, proved a worthy match to the salmon tartare. But, as we moved onto the 2006 Dierberg Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, it was as if this wine was meant for the swordfish course it was paired with. The spiciness of the fish seasoning really matched the Pinot and was one of the evening favorites.

However, there was no disappointment in the room with the next course, featuring a delicate New Zealand lamb chop and the 2005 medium to full-bodied, inky Dierberg Syrah. The showstopper, petite fillet, was paired with the family Cabernets. It made for an amazing face-off between the 2005 Star Lane Cabernet, the 2005 Star Lane Astral Cabernet and the 2005 Three Saints Cabernet– all winners in their own right.

I always say that if you want to learn about wine, you have to taste it, and that’s what makes evenings like this so wonderful. Folks got the chance to compare the subtle nuances in this family of wine while maybe having a night out with friends and making some new friends along the way. As a wine seller, I love to sell wine, but it’s these kinds of experiences that I find so gratifying — meeting the people behind the wine and having an opportunity to share the experience with folks in our community.

We organize these dinners a couple of times a month, so we’re already working on the next one. I hope you can be a part of it. If you didn’t have the pleasure of trying these wines at the dinner, click any of the links above to get one sent out to you.

Sean Chaudhry