New World Rosé meets French sensibilities

It would seem that if you want to make a French winemaker mad, just mess with his wine…or wine regulations.

The European Union was all set to relax rules on how Rosé wines can be made there, allowing mixtures of red and white wine to create pink instead of the more time-consuming/costly and traditional saignée method where red wine grapes keep their skins on for a bit of a several-hour soak.  The French – as well as angry Italians and Spaniards – lobbied against this “New World” Rosé process and apparently swayed the EU.  Just last month, the EU dropped the issue, never even allowing it to come to a vote.

Whew!  But what does that mean for Rosé lovers?  It means that wine lovers have a plethora of Rosé choices this summer as the popularity of Rosé continues to dramatically rise (reportedly by 22 percent worldwide in the past 10 years according to the London Times, and expected to grow by more than 47 percent by 2012) — thus the angst and concern over expanding the competition in this market. Rosé wines are unquestionably the fastest growing segment in wine sales and likely for several reasons:  because they aren’t “aged” wines, they are cheaper to produce and cheaper to buy; because of the variety of new grapes being introduced to this process, winemakers are experimenting more and producing interesting and tasty results; and because our summers are seemingly hotter each year, these new, drier variations are a perfect match for the intense summer heat.

Gone are the days when Rosé was limited to France’s own fabulous grapes that were led by Grenache.  Also gone are the days of cloyingly, sweet blush wines that were quite limiting. We now have a wide range of grapes producing interesting and new Rosé wines.

Pink as the setting sun in the West

California has seized on its strong suit to make Rosé wines from Cabernets and Zinfandels (White Zinfandel became a huge hit for Sutter Home and saved the Zinfandel grape from extinction!), but one can find some surprises as well.  Take, for instance, Renard Rosé, which is made with mostly Grenache grapes and a little bit of Syrah (10 percent) and Viognier (8 percent) thrown in.  The ripe strawberry flavors are tempered with a nice acidity that make it wonderfully drinkable on a hot summer evening with lighter grilled fare.

But California hardly has the monopoly on Rosé wine from the States.  The Northwest, particularly Willamette Valley, is using the Pinot Noir grape with much success, as well as other varietals.  Charles & Charles Rosé uses Syrah from Washington state’s Wahluke Slope, turning out a light copper wine with aromas of summer berries.  This is a particularly dry Rosé that is refreshing and perfect with chicken, fish or other light summer fare.

Heading south, one can find a great example of Argentine’s foray into Rosé wines with the Crios de Susana Balbo Rosé of Malbec.  Using the traditional saignée process and Malbec grapes from 30-year-old vines, this wine is medium-bodied, dry with cherry and strawberry flavors.

Europe’s garden of Rosés

Obviously, with its home rooted in Europe, Rosé wine is in great abundance throughout.  Here, where I live in Germany, we have our Weissherbst that is usually made from Spätburgunder aka Pinot Noir.  But, in France, Spain, Italy and Portugal, you can see Rosé from Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet, and of course, the ubiquitous Grenache.

It’s not unusual to see sparkling Rosé, which are exempt from the saignée process.  Bisol Desiderio Jeio Cuvee Rosé Brut is a Merlot/Pinot Noir blend from Italy that makes a wonderful, effervescent aperitif.  It’s crisp with a little bit of citrus and hints of rose and fresh summer fruit – great with appetizers, but able to stand up to pasta, white meats and seafood to go with a meal.

Summer time is Rosé time

Until this week, the weather had been sweltering in the United States, and even here in Germany, where it never seems to heat up sufficiently.  During these times, we need wines that provide refreshment, and Rosé seem to do just that. Rosé goes perfectly with the lighter fare of summer – salads, seafood, pasta, and light chicken dishes.  They also pair well with most grilled fare, the notable exception being a juicy, rare steak at your backyard barbecue. That provides a conundrum.  The temperature is too high for enjoying a room temperature, rich red wine, and the meal too boisterous perhaps for a chilled Rosé or White. The only solution at that point – move indoors to the air conditioning or hope for a cooling summer shower.

– Ivy F. Kupec