Organic and Biodynamic Wines: Let’s Get Metaphysical

In this age of global climate change, many businesses and consumers are looking at what’s “green.” In the wine world, that search leads to sustainable, organic and biodynamic winemaking. But, it’s not as easy as it seems. Chemical-free farming may produce organic grapes, but it’s the sulfites that muddy the issue in the United States – so much so that many winemakers who employ organic practices still don’t advertise that fact. And it’s mostly because “organic” wines have such a horrible reputation.

Are added sulfites organic?

Sulfites are added to wine to keep them from oxidizing as they age. In fact, wines without sulfites have a short shelf life, and that’s why organic wine has gotten such a bad reputation. U.S. organic labeling prohibits added sulfites, and unfortunately wines without sulfites may be good today, but you can’t be sure it will be just as tasty a month or a year from now.

In France or Italy, regulators have dismissed added sulfites as a deciding point for organic-ness. This isn’t so surprising either. U.S. food regulators allow certain additives in organic foods. Unfortunately, for U.S. winemakers, we have a murkier way of labeling our organic wine.

Certified “100% organic wine,” which carries a USDA seal guarantees the wine is made from 100 percent organically grown ingredients, has been monitored throughout the production process and only contains naturally occurring sulfites (or sulfur dioxide, an antimicrobial substance and anti-oxidizer), in less than 100 parts per million. Plain ol’ organic wine also has a USDA seal, but guarantees at least 95 percent of the ingredients are organically grown and carries the same sulfite requirements. Lastly, there is the labeling of “Made with Organic Grapes,” which indicates the wine contains at least 70 percent organic ingredients, but it can have added sulfites of up to 100 parts per million. It does not get an “organic” seal.

Obviously, sulfites are a sticky wicket. In fact, it doesn’t take much research to learn that organic wine proponents see the sulfite issue and its limitations on wine labeling as unfair. And I’m probably putting that mildly. Consider this quote from Paul Chartrand of Chartrand Imports, in the Organic Wine Journal: “There are 34 synthetic ingredients allowed in processed organic food. They have to put it on the ingredient statement, but they can still say it’s “organic.” The dividing line is 95% or more organic ingredients, as long as nothing else in it is off that list. The wine industry is sort of discriminated against because of the misunderstanding. Even though we have 99.9% organic ingredients, and the only non-organic ingredient is sulfur dioxide, all we can say is “’made from organic grapes.’” The misunderstanding he refers to is about sulfites, as he claims that the regulatory beef with sulfites is that people, including regulators, see it as an additive that has been problematic. The problem has been with people who have allergies.

What’s so great about organic wine?

The thing about organic wine is that it’s good for the environment, and it’s likely good for us, too. Organic farmers eschew chemical fertilizer for manure or algae in the vineyards. Instead of pesticides, they grow additional plants in the vineyard that attract insects, spiders and other “good” bugs to fight the “bad” ones. They let weeds go, grow and then mow, using the decomposed clippings as fertilizer, too. Ultimately, the result is that this “old world” farming brings back “old world” flavor that many believe is far superior. Gary Pisoni, as I wrote about in an earlier blog, sought out “old world” vines, too that were heartier stock and could stand up to modern-day challenges like phylloxera.

“You end up with a healthier plant, and you see that in the juice,” said John Fetzer, owner of Saracina Vineyards in Mendocino County, Calif., in a recent Miami Herald story. “The plant ripens faster, which means you can harvest earlier and get better sugar, acid and pH ratios.”

Finding your existential grape

According to Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, just going organic isn’t enough. Considered the father of biodynamic farming, Steiner believed that farmers needed holistic perspective. The vineyard is a complete living organism, and the soil, insects, vegetation and animals are connected and need to be in harmony to produce great wine. Using byproducts of the vineyard to care for the vineyard (e.g., manure, grass clippings, the insects that reside there, etc.), you keep it all healthy and in balance. Additionally, winegrowers who subscribe to this “biodynamic” approach also look to the moon and stars for planting and harvesting. Lunar gravity, which creates low and high tides, also impacts the water table and sap in plants. Thus, these winemakers are likely picking their grapes when sap is on the rise.

For those of us who just want a good bottle of wine and admittedly forget about these greener issues as soon as we hit the wine shop, organic and biodynamic wines give us pause. Ultimately, our choices hinge on what wines taste best. The nice thing about this environmental and healthy push is that it not only produces great wine, but gives us a future to toast to.

Ivy F. Kupec