Pisoni Pinot: Overcoming odds, criticism and convention

Pisoni has found a formula for taking 45 arid, gravelly, granite-y Monterey hillside acres of mostly pinot grapes minus an apparent water source plus (if you believe rumors) smuggled-in root stalk from Domaine de la Romanée Conti plus the nagging concern that his blocks of vulnerable, own-rooted vines will succumb to the phylloxera that has downed so many great vines before, and the sum is far more than just good bottles of wine.

No, one could argue that while many California winemakers make exceptional wine, few have not only started with so many obstacles but seemingly enjoyed flying in the face of conventional solutions. And, succeeded so impressively.

The story begins

Pisoni’s determination at producing a top-notch Pinot is truly noble, but maybe that comes with the territory of a clear Pinot fanatic.

Consider how the vineyard is a portion of 300 acres on hilly, rough land in the Santa Lucia Highlands better suited for horse farming than agriculture. With the initial five-acre planting in 1982, Pisoni had to irrigate with a water truck he drove there. It took six drilling attempts over 10 years before he finally struck water, surprising neighboring vintners. But, that wasn’t the only trailblazing for Pisoni.

In a 2005 interview in Wines and Vines, Pisoni admits his fascination with earlier growing methods for Pinot Noir. “I used to read books about Pinot Noir and studied Burgundy, and all the old timers would say, ‘Sonny, you should have tried the vines before the phylloxera came in. Old World flavors!”

It’s what prompted him to forego phylloxera-resistant grafting and try own-rooted vines. Factoring in his land’s 1,300 foot elevation, its virgin soil and his ability to minimize exposure by using only his own tilling equipment, Pisoni has succeeded in producing extraordinary grapes, and many credit this decision. Pisoni believes it adds another dimension to his wine.

But for Pisoni the quest for Pinot perfection is never-ending. He has experimented with different types of rootstocks and nontraditional trellising approaches. These days, his vineyard is divided into nine smaller, named “blocks” that can be as small as a half acre. Interestingly, he treats every block as its own farm with a distinct soil type, sun exposure and microclimate. Many of the top Pinot producers buy their grapes from Pisoni “by the acre” such that they make the farming decisions for their specific grapes. Consequently, picking time can vary by two weeks between sections within Pisoni’s vineyard.

The Elias block and its precious low yield each year is used predominately to make his Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir.

Yes, but how does it taste?

It’s probably not surprising that this kind of dedication produces wines that Robert Parker Jr. and Wine Spectator rave about. The 2006 Pisoni is no exception. Parker rated the deep ruby/purple-hued wine a 95+. Tasting notes praise its “sensational perfume of spring flowers, forest floor, black raspberries, even blacker berries, and hints of smoke as well as earth. A sensational texture, full-bodied mouthfeel, and no sense of heaviness suggest this well-structured, moderately tannic wine will last for at least a decade.”

Some say Pisoni is just lucky. Maybe he has fabulous intuition or some existential connection to the grapes on land that Indians say was magical and evoked spiritual power. Whatever the reason, it adds up to a winegrower and wine that are consistently winners.

- Ivy F. Kupec