Steven Verlin Collection: Auction for the Ages

Steve Woodward in Chicago

Friday was an historic day in the premium wine auction industry because the Steven Verlin Collection — or some fraction of it that as of Saturday night  generated more than $7 million in two bidding sessions — was on the block. At mid-afternoon my head (photographed below earlier in the morning) was buried in a Hart Davis Hart catalog, surveying enticing possibilities. When I looked up from my reading materials, to my surprise, weenies had filled the room.

HDJ You might rush to judgment here: what does one expect at a mega-premium wine auction? Weenies tend to show up at these events, thrusting their paddles skyward to one-up fellow wine collectors.

But this was different. This was Chicago’s Tru, a fine dining mecca, and the weenies were hot dogs nestled in white-bread buns. Suddenly, Tru and the famous landmark Wrigley Field were all but soul mates.

Friday was a day to celebrate the life of acclaimed late collector Steven Verlin, to bid on the vast components of his epic collection, and to nibble on the comfort foods he adored, Orville Redenbacher popcorn and authentic hot dogs, with dainty serving vessels of country dijon mustard and sauerkraut close by. Verlin’s spouse, Grae, flew in to observe this most important auction and to thank the attendees by having Tru’s staff uncork a Methuselah (6L) of 1990 Cristal — at 9:45 a.m. All in attendance were presented a flut of the prized Champagne to savor.

The hot dogs — good, but no match for Tru’s buffet lunch featuring three varities of pate, enormous prawns, smoked salmon, squid salad and bow-tie pesto pasta, to name a few – were served with Verlin’s wine of choice when he was being “frank”, a smokey Spanish Unico red. Bidders were served a healthy pour of a 1970 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero. Moments earlier, a lot of 6 magnums of same in original wood cases scored a winning bid of $8,500.

As expected, Day 1 of the two-day auction stirred aggressive bidding on location, online and by telephone. An imperial of 1947 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild Bordeaux fetched $45,000.  Five lots of 1982 Chateau Lafleur (three 12-bottle offerings, a lot of two magnums and a jeroboam) attracted total winning bids of $126,000. A nine-bottle lot (all noted as showing signs of seepage) of 1982 Chateau Le Pin Pomerol was snatched for $40,000. A bidder in the room secured two double-magnums of 1989 Chateau Petrus for $38,000. A remote bidder stayed the course to claim an imperial of 1990 Petrus for the day’s highest single-lot bid, $50,000.

At my table a fellow bidder and I thoroughly enjoyed a Tru wine list choice, the 2005 K Vintners Cougar Hills Wall Walla Valley Syrah, with lunch. But this was not just another day in Chicago. Across the room inside Tru, we glimpsed Grae Verlin giving a nod to wine director Scott Tyree to decant a double magnum of 1990 Chateau Latour. A short time later, her old friends were understandably distracted from the auction as the Latour was served.

   

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