Spain Reigns

In mid-February, influential wine importer Eric Solomon did something during a Chicago tasting event that not everyone in his position would be inclined to do. We know. We were there.

He ventured a prediction about a yet unreleased vintage (2004) from Spain. As reported in our February 19 Vintelligence blog post, Solomon declared, “You will see the first 100-point wines from Spain.” Solomon, like many, was anticipating this week’s latest issue of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate that includes reports from a historic series of tastings in Spain by Parker field expert Jay Miller between September 2006 and January 2007.

The suspense has ended. Now we know that Spain’s 2004 premium red wines have something in common with Hollywood director Martin Scorsese. After years of unrewarded excellence they have been rightly handed the “Oscar”. In the case of Spain’s wine artisans the reward is critical acclaim and the all-important “100″.

Four epic 2004 Spanish wines were deemed worthy of 100 points (96 and higher is considered epic territory), including Bodegas Artadi El Pison from Rioja, a 100% Tempranillo we tasted with Solomon, the operator of Charlotte, N.C.-based European Cellars. He is the importer of El Pison, as well as Artadi’s Pagos Viejos. Wine Advocate rates Pagos Viejos, also a 100% Tempranillo, a 97-pointer. In other words, beyond excellent. Solomon was delighted the Pagos Viejos (which will retail around $93) had been open for several hours when we tasted it in Chicago. The result? “It’s justing singing right now!” he declared.

Solomon’s portfolio also includes the 100-point Clos Erasmus, a Garnacha blend (Priorat). These 100-pointers will be strictly allocated, of course, and priced accordingly as will a 99-point Bodegas El Nido El Nido (a Jumilla Cabernet blend so nice they named it twice) handled by major importer Jorge Ordonez.

So these are exciting and potentially frantic times for determined collectors of ultra-premiums. Those who have been singing the praises of Spain’s winemakers (and in the case of El Nido, Australia’s makers, as the consulant is Aussie Chris Ringland) will recognize that this is a defining moment and the slow to react will miss out. A few years ago, Spanish wines were in ample supply among their growing legions of fans. No longer. As confirmed by this landmark vintage (and 2001 Reserves being released this year), the vineyard talent pool across Spain is deep and formidable. “If I were a budding wine collector with limited discretionary income,” writes Miller for Wine Advocate, “I would be (cellaring) cases of 2001s and 2004s …”

As these and other spectacular premium releases from Spain begin arriving through the top importers, look to Hinsdale Cellars as your source for acquiring the best of the best.

Two from the 2003 vintage that were quickly acquired by our well informed clients are better than ever among the 2004s — Bodegas El Nido Clio (Jumilla), a premium red blend, and Numanthia Tinta de Toro (Toro).

The ’04 Numanthia (projected to be around $60/bottle) garners a 98 from the Advocate (the ’03 was a 96), while the ’04 Clio is perhaps the most appealing of them all in the 96+ club. Dominated by the indigenous Monastrell grape, Clio merits a 97 but will retail in the U.S. for just north of $40/bottle. So it is the ideal premium find — celebrated and well priced. Oh, and “totally hedonistic,” Miller concludes.