Susana Balbo: Red Wine That’s Green

Perhaps circling the globe to consult with other winemakers causes one to return home with an appreciation for not only good wine, but also preserving the resources that help create it.

That seems to be the case for Susana Balbo, who is respected worldwide for her skill and experience in winemaking. After 20 years of advising others and helping them to produce great wines in Australia, California, Chile, France, Italy, South Africa and Spain, she found her way back to Argentina and started Dominio del Plata, a vineyard known for its sustainable agriculture as much as its fabulous wines. Reportedly, she still spends a month each year in a different wine region of the world, everlearning from other winemakers and growers.

According to the winery’s Web site, “the entire project is specially designed and implemented in a way that doesn’t harm the natural resources, preserves the environment, functions according to social requirements, and at the same time maintains productivity to remain economically competitive.” And, though, many of the grapes for the wines come from other vineyards, those growers too, must agree to Balbo’s rigorous standards.

Hinsdale Cellars’ own Sean Chaudhry spent a day touring her vineyards and winery recently during his ongoing Argentina wine expedition that you will soon read about in Vintelligence.

A winery known for passion and precision

A family enterprise, Balbo and her husband Pedro Marchevsky had a shared vision of paying close attention to the small things that make the difference between good wine and great wine. Many describe her wines as a bridge in style between California and Bordeaux with fruit “opulence” that doesn’t overpower.

Wine critics reiterate the evident passion Balbo and her family have put into producing quality wine: the careful selection of Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, an area noted for its warm summer days and cool nights; the well-draining, sandy soil that, despite strong hail storms, make this a nearly perfect home for grapevines’ the high-trellising system for stability that is credited for sustaining the grapes during a long growing season so they can have great color and aroma; and the constant maintenance Balbo and company give their vines. It all adds up to making truly noteworthy wines.

In addition to Balbo’s super premium or signature labels of Susana Balbo, Ben Marco, and Nosotros, she has become popularly known for her more moderately priced “Crios” line. Crios means offspring in Spanish, and she has said that she chose this name because these wines weren’t quite as grown up as her others – more brashly fruit forward and to be enjoyed younger than her signature wines.

A winning combination

Perhaps, one of her most interesting wines in the Crios collection blends Syrah and Bonarda grapes. Critics and wine connoisseurs alike proclaim it drinks like a significantly more expensive wine than she has priced it, so take note. The Bonarda grape, which originated in Italy, is rarely found there these days, but it’s quite common in Argentina, and the blend with Syrah has produced a dark reddish/purple wine with an intense aroma of black raspberries.

According to Robert Parker Jr.’s The Wine Advocate, the 2006 Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah-Bonarda “delivers an alluring nose of baking spice, blueberry plum, and black raspberry. On the palate, it is medium bodied with loads of spicy dark fruit a forward personality, good balance, and a pure finish….” His rating of 90 points for this wine follows Wine Spectator’s 89 points and the quippy comment: “Very tasty. Drink now.” Clearly advice to heed…and soon!

– Ivy F. Kupec