The Next O’Shaughnessy Cab

The charming vintner Betty O’Shaughnessy left her enviable perch on Howell Mountain to be in Chicago this week. She began by dining at the celebrated TRU, then the following day reconnected with sommeliers, restaurateurs and retailers during a private lunch in the gallery room at NoMI, an acclaimed dining destination inside Chicago’s posh Park Hyatt. The event’s host was leading Midwest distributor Troy Clements of Pure Wine Co.

With her new husband, Paul, at her side, Betty is on the road with new sales and marketing director Mike Steffel to herald the forthcoming release of the 2004 O’Shaughnessy Estate Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. There is much to herald.

Betty and winemaker Sean Capiaux have patiently awaited this release. They have been out of the consumer market for a year. The 2003 Howell Mountain Cab sold out quickly, followed by a decision to bottle-age the ’04 Cab six months more than earlier vintages (resulting in a total of 12 months in the bottle).

“It was a good decision,” she said during a memorable lunch created by NoMI executive chef Christophe David. “We are pleased we waited the extra six months.”

The ’04, with decanting, was highly drinkable when we sipped it with a delicious roasted lamb/spinach cannelloni dish (left) at NoMi on Tuesday. This is the fifth O’Shaughnessy vintage, but the first to contain all six Bordeaux blending varietals planted on her 36-acres of vineyards. The combination of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot (6%), Petit Verdot (4%), Malbec (3%), Carmenere (2%), Cabernet Franc and St. Macaire (1% each) results in a premium Napa red wine that has “more complexity” and tames the “harsh tannins of Howell Mountain (fruit),” Betty said.

Besides her marriage last September, which finds Betty living part-time near Los Angeles (where her husband’s law firm is based), the other big news delivered during her stop is that O’Shaughnessy Estate is one of only 12 California Cabernet producers invited to participate in a prestigious tasting this October.

The Oct. 19 blind tasting at Chateau Brane-Cantenac in the Bordeaux region is organized by the Vintners Club of San Francisco. A panel comprised of chateau owners, negociants, European aficionados and wine journalists from London and Paris will blind taste 12 California Cabs from the 2002 vintage. The other invitees are Caymus Vineyards, Flora Springs, Justin Vineyards, L’Aventure, The Nth Degree, Palmaz Vineyards, Ramey Wine Cellars, Ridge Vineyards, Robert Craig (also from Howell Mountain), Rocca Family Vineyards and ZD Wines.

As we savored a menu that also included a delicate heirloom tomato and buffalo mozzarella starter (right), later concluding with a dessert of artisan cheeses, Betty mentioned that O’Shaughnessy is releasing a 2004 Mt. Veeder Cabernet. Unfortunately, only 300 cases were produced and will be available only to the winery’s mailing list customers.