The Snazz Appeal of Champagne

“Two warm bodies and one cold bottle of Champagne will produce something more wonderful than would happen without the Champagne.”"

– Helen Gurley Brown, the Ultimate “Cosmo” Girl

Naysayers may exist, but I find it hard to believe that anyone is immune to the celebratory powers of Champagne. It’s what’s for weddings, New Year’s, and so many other special occasions. Karen MacNeil, author of the Wine Bible, recounts Marilyn Monroe’s love for the stuff such that the actress reportedly took a bath in 350 bottles of it!

Sure, these days one can find other satisfying bubblies in a favorite Prosecco, Cava or Sekt, but Champagne will always have one thing these others don’t: the name, Champagne.

Folks like Robert M. Parker will say that name has done a disservice to the wine, allowing it to rest on its delicate fizzy laurels and take far longer than it should have in developing into wine that is as great tasting as it is luxurious and festive.

Back to the chalk pit

What makes Champagne unique is what makes so many French wines unique: its terroir. From its start 65 million years ago when prehistoric seas over northern France and Britain receded, leaving huge chalky deposits, Champagne grapes had unique soil composition and an interesting set of microclimates for such a small area (again, very French) that yielded interesting wine stories, if not great wine in its early years in the 1600s.

• Cold temperatures that kept the yeasts from growing during the winter months initially frustrated wine makers. Spring would come, yeasts would grow again and the result was embarrassingly fizzy wine. At this time, that was more likely seen as evidence of spoilage rather than something elegant.

• Theses wines also had a problem with gritty yeast residue. Thanks to a Widow Clicquot employee, a fascinating “riddling” process migrated the residue to the bottles’ stems where it could be frozen and expelled with gas from the bottles themselves before a final topping off with base wine and rebottling.

• The Champagne region winters and springs could be (and still are!) so cold that grapes had a hard time surviving. Not only were vines trained low to the ground to maximize the heat that bounces off the white soil, but winemakers used to employ white plastic sheeting to aid reflection as well. That sheeting has since been outlawed.

The trio of grapes

Interestingly, only three grapes can be found in Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. And because of the disparity between these grapes, Champagnes, depending on the grape distribution, can fluctuate wine flavors and textures as well – from something light and citrusy to full-bodied and more reminiscent of vanilla custard in flavor and texture.

Champagne makers tend to stick with a style such that Perrier-Jouêt will likely always be a light-to-medium wine. Veuve Clicquot and Pommery will likely always be medium-to-full bodied, and Bollinger and Krug will always be known for their fullness. For someone interested in a more Chardonnay-driven Champagne, a Blanc de Blanc might be in order, which predominantly come from Côte des Blanc, which is one of five Champagne vineyard areas. Along with the Montagne de Reims, the Côte des Blanc is home to essentially all 17 of Champagne’s “extraordinary” villages, according to MacNeil, saying they are “historically rated 100 percent.” Duval-Leroy, based in Vertus, has been making Champagne in this region since 1859, and produces both Blanc de Chardonnay as well as other Champagnes that have gotten considerable attention.

Ringing in the New Year

As New Year’s Eve approaches, finding just the right bubbly to make your festivities special doesn’t have to be difficult. With an ample selection, the experts at Hinsdale Wine Cellars are here to assist, and most importantly, wish you a joyous 2010.