Westward Wine

Westward Wine

Good wine grapes need to struggle.  It’s not only what makes them strong and enduring; it transforms them into fabulous wines.  In Washington State, with its cooler climate, but desert-like land east of the Cascade Mountain range, grapes have been put through the paces, resulting in a relatively burgeoning wine region with great expectations.

This month, I was one of 40 wine sellers selected for the Washington State Wine Commission’s “road trip,” where folks like myself got a five-day, hands-on experience in the four of the nine major AVA wine regions at their busiest time of year: harvest time.  My conclusion at the end of the trip? Washington is producing remarkable wines without the clamor and price of New World and Old World equivalents.  If you haven’t thought about selecting a Washington State wine in the past, don’t worry—they’re only getting better.

A short history

In the wine business, 30-year-old grape vines are but children only beginning to show who they are.  That’s why when people look at the remarkable quality of Washington State wines, the quick revelation is that this industry, of not more than 30 years, is expected to improve significantly. And, did I mention that it’s already impressive? Much like the sweet, innocent Napa of the ‘70s, Washington State’s lack of commercialization and quaint undiscovered gem quality will likely vanish soon.

Washington State is the nation’s second largest wine producer.  Since 1981 when the Commission started tracking industry development there, it’s gone from 19 wineries to more than 650. Its wine production has grown 100 percent where they now produce more than 20 million gallons of wine each year.  And the winemakers are focused on keeping their livelihood alive by employing environmentally sustainable practices that seem only to enhance wine quality.

After seeing first hand the special geography they have for their vines, I appreciate the reason for this commitment.  Washington State grapes are blessed with a shorter, cooler growing season that is rich in sun and short on water.  And though its desert-like qualities might prove too drought-like at times, they are also fortunate to have tap-able water sources in the ubiquitous mountain rivers and underground aquifers.  The limited moisture and loose, sandy soil keep fungal disease and pests like phylloxera at bay, and the significant temperature variance between night and day helps also produce a balanced grape, in terms of its sugar content.

Immersed in great wine

From my limited time in the midst of grape picking and crushing, I gleaned that Washington winemakers are focusing on Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah in the red varietals, and Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the whites.  However, the commission says winemakers are producing more than 30 different varietals there.

From our first day, the Road Trip gang embarked on a wine tasting at the Space Needle to provide an overview before we visited wine country.  From there, we flew to the Tri-city area to begin an intense immersion into Washington wine.  From 6 a.m. to at least 11 p.m. each day we were talking with winemakers, picking and sorting grapes, testing vineyard soil, helping with an assortment of other winemaking processes for this time of year, and – of course – tasting the wine.

However, what likely made the experience most special was the interaction with the winemakers.  At Buty Vineyards in Walla Walla, I got to talk with Caleb Foster, the owner and winemaker there since 2000.  His focus on a small production, high-quality winery has resulted in impressive Syrah and Chardonnay.  Unfortunately, his wine – a remarkable quality at an equally remarkable low price – is not available in Illinois yet.

Set on a corner of Red Mountain at Terra Blanca Vineyards, I tasted some of the most amazing Syrah and Cabernets among at least six vertical tastings that showed what a difference a year makes.  Even more stunning than the wine was the view of this luscious vineyard against such a majestic mountainside – likely the most beautiful winery I visited.

And while Washington State boasts the same latitude as Bordeaux and Burgundy, France, it was a little bit of Italy we found in DeLille Cellars, where we finished our expedition with an enormous party at its Italian-style villa.

Of course, another one of the benefits to a tour such as this one is the regional food that accompanies any wine tasting. Sweet, juicy Walla Walla onions were everywhere, even the local taco truck that happened by one day with beers and chicken or beef tacos were topped with cheese and Walla Walla onions.

There are few places in the world where you can count on a sunny day, but in this part of Washington State, that is the case, which made our tour extra nice.  For

the grapes, the dry sunny summer provides an understandable struggle, but the wines prove it is just the right place for a wine industry to grow.